Update from the Log Book of Windswept IV

Hello everyone,

We hear that the weather up north this winter has been very good, with little snow and quite warm temperatures. We hope that it stays that way for all of you and that the flu bug doesn’t bite.

Things are still great aboard. The weather has been wonderful lately, with 3 weeks of sunny warm days. The water temperature is still around 78 degrees F.

Along with friends aboard MarNel IV, we have done a lot of fishing and snorkeling. Some of it quite successful. I have become adept at spotting the camouflaged groupers, and Murray is really getting good with his spear. He shot a good sized lobster right between the eyes, for our first feed of lobster aboard this year. But, it sure wasn’t the last. A little wheeling and dealing ashore one day got us 2 lobster for $10. They were the perfect size for one meal. Then last night, a purchase from a passing local got us a HUGE lobster for $12. That one fed us and we have at least one pound of lobster meat left over for Lobster Newberg ( I got the recipe from another boater ). Yummm.

In our travels, we have seen some lovely reefs. Recently, the wind and seas were very calm and we took the opportunity to snorkel on the Sea Aquarium again. It was just awesome. Huge fish and beautiful coral gardens. The sea aquarium is inside the Exuma Land and Sea Park and fishing there is prohibited. Consequently, the fish are not afraid of divers and just mosey around, in and out of the reef. Last year, we were disappointed to see that the huge groupers had gone and were afraid that someone had shot them. But, after we were in the water about 30 minutes on this visit, they started to show up from their hiding spots and we saw at least 3 big ones. It was wonderful to see them.

We have burned up a lot of gas, trying to catch fish from the dinghy, with little success so far. On the other hand, still fishing using conch bits as bait has been very good. Murray caught a total of 6 trigger fish in two days. They are hard to clean, but have a lovely firm white flesh that is very tasty.

Right now, we are back in the Staniel Cay area and anchored around us is the Canadian fleet. Or, that is what it looks like. Canadian flags seem to be in the majority at this moment. In fact, the numbers of American cruisers seem to be greatly diminished, while the Canadian ones ignore their slumping dollar and head off anyway. We have had many reunions with old friends and are meeting new people daily. I organized a beach party a few days ago, with drinks and snacks and conversation while the sun set behind us. Last evening, we saw our first green flash of the winter. As the last of the sun disappeared into the sea, a brief flash of bright green was spotted. It is rare, but does happen.

Well, that is what is going on here. How are things with everyone up north? Write when you can. Hugs to all.

Heather & Murray aboard Windswept IV

Holidays in Staniel Cay

We hope that everyone had a wonderful Christmas and New Year’s and that Santa was good to you all. He even managed to slide his bulk down the mast and put a couple of things in the stockings hung there. On Christmas Day, we had turkey dinner aboard a friend’s boat. The turkey was cut in half and each half cooked separately in the barbecue. I brought mashed potatoes ( without a masher, Murray had to smash them with a spoon ) and a freshly baked pumpkin pie. It was a real feast.

Things were quite quiet in Staniel over Christmas, but as New Year’s neared, the events cranked up. There was a picnic on the public beach, with the junior racing teams competing in the bay on Sunfish. Fund raising events, such as auctions and dances were held. On the 31st, the C-class Bahamian boats competed in a three race series. They are 16 to 18 ft long with a cat rig. The mast is 40 ft high and the boom 20 ft long. There is little ballast in these boats, but they use the weight of their crew to hold the boat upright. The crew climbs out onto planks extending over the side of the boats. These planks are called pries. When the boat tacks, so do these planks. Murray had the opportunity to sail on one for one race – The Termite. I took several photos with my digital camera and hope to send them to the website in Feb sometime. Another picnic was held on the beach, followed by the Captain’s Cocktail party with free rum punch and snacks. Fireworks were scheduled for midnight, but the rain put a damper on that.

On New Year’s Day, the Cruising Regatta was held. A fleet of 18 boats entered, including 5 catamarans. The wind was blowing 12 to 15 knots with an overcast sky. The start line was skewed, and a trifle short. Especially with those wide cats in the race. We sailed the line on starboard, but the cats couldn’t make that tack and came in on port. The collision was just behind us but the sound of crunching fiberglass was one that I don’t want to hear again soon. Two cats crunched, with some damage to one but it was able to continue on. The course was a triangle approx 6 miles long and we went around twice. Although we were pressed hard by our friends on Annual Hope, a Hughes 38 from Lion’s Head, Windswept IV ended the race in 2nd place. The prize was a watercolour by a local artist. Just lovely.

As the cold fronts were approaching and winds forecast to be high, the next day found us negotiating the shallows behind the Majors and setting our anchors to keep us safe. We are tucked in behind a little cay, in a small bay with six other boats. The wind started to blow hard yesterday and it is quite cool. I know, not as cool as there! But, some people are wearing sweatshirts! Too cold to swim and too windy to leave the boats. So, we bake and read and fix things and listen to the radio calls. Life in a anchorage during a blow.

Well, that’s what has been happening here. How’s things up north?? Snowy?? Not a snowy as Buffalo, I am sure. Hugs to you all and stay warm and well.

Murray & Heather aboard Windswept IV, getting wind swept!

Snores from the Deep

I have a strange tale to tell today. While we were anchored in Lake Worth, friends from Sea Zeus stopped by. They told us of strange noises that they had heard, when they were anchored near Melbourne FL. The noise seemed to come from under the boat and almost seemed to be someone snoring. The captain had a shower and then ran the shower sump and dumped soapy water under the boat. The creature below snorted, splashed and left. The story sounded unbelievable to our ears. But….

A few days later, in the early evening, Murray noticed a strange noise. It was very quiet at first and we thought that a fender or such was rubbing. All deck cargo was checked. The noise grew louder. Now, deck fittings such as the gooseneck and main sheet were examined. No reason for the noise could be found. Eventually, it faded away.

The same thing happened the next night. We jokingly said that it was a manatee sleeping on our winged keel. The noise would last a couple of hours and then fade away.

The third night came around and again the noise was heard. This time it became quite loud. Murray finally stomped on the floor, and we heard a snort. Then the gentle sounds started again. Slowly they built louder and louder. It was obvious that something was snoring beneath our boat. Likely a manatee. I think it liked to doze on our wing keel. Eventually, it moved off and allowed us to start our own snoring.

Next time we meet Sea Zeus, we will ask if they have a wing keel as well. Perhaps that is the preferred sleeping accommodation for manatees.

So, that is your sea saga for the day. Anybody with a logical explanation, please let us know.

We got favourable conditions on Dec 9th to make our crossing to the islands. Departure was from West Palm Beach at 0430 and we made a daylight crossing for the first time. Only met one freighter in the dark and he seemed on a collisions course for a few minutes. But, of course, he wasn’t and missed us by many miles. The crossing was the easiest that we have had and also the earliest arrival in the islands. Whether, they are connected, I am not sure.

We entered the banks south of Memory Rock and motorsailed on to Great Sale Cay, a total distance of approx 110 miles. It was dark by the time we anchored, but good to stop. We arose early again the next morning and motorsailed again, against a stiff breeze at times. By late afternoon we were anchored in Powell Cay, where we spent the next day as well, catching up on our sleep and boat chores. Checking in with customs was accomplished at Green Turtle Cay. Murray had his first Kalik ( local Bahamian beer ).

We have moved on again and are currently in Marsh Harbour to enjoy the boat parade and fireworks display tonight. But, as we would like to get to Staniel Cay, Exumas, for Christmas, I think we will head more south in the morning. As we must travel out in the Atlantic from the Abacos to Eleuthera, the weather will decide our next move. So, again we will sit and watch and listen, but be ready to move if the correct conditions are pending.

Christmas lights and decorations have not been hung around the boat yet, as we are moving too much. Soon, we will sit for a bit and I will dig out my tiny tree and the stockings. Even Christmas lights will be strung, in the bimini and only lit for cocktail hour. So, Merry Christmas to all up north.

Hugs, Murray & Heather

Finally Fixed and Free!

Well, we finally left Vero Beach! It was two weeks of repairs, shopping and waiting for parts. It is a lovely spot to do that sort of work, as there is a free bus service to most of the shopping areas. But, the boats are on moorings, and rafted ( that is tied beside) to another vessel. Sometimes even two other vessels. And the moorings are close together. So, as you can imagine, there is little privacy and a lot of noise from generators. Some people have no concept of quiet times and even start their generators as early as 6:30 AM. Or run them as late as 10 PM.

So, it was with great glee that we slipped our lines early Tuesday morning and headed further south. We didn’t go too far – just approx 40 miles to Peck Lake. Peck Lake isn’t what you are imagining as a lake, but more a wide spot in the ICW. There are sand dunes and a beach to walk on, if we decide to get the dinghy down. Right now, we are just catching our breath. It seems as though we have run from one job to the next for the past three weeks, so it is good to just relax a little.

I say relax, but this morning was boat jobs, as usual. I polished the brass clock, barometer and bell below decks while Murray waxed and removed marks from the cockpit. Then, using some broccoli stalks, I made a chowder for lunch. Now, we can sit and read or write for a bit.

Hurricane Olga is kicking up some large swells in the Atlantic, so it is unlikely that we will be able to cross for a few days. A cold front is also expected soon, and that will give us winds from the north. Not appropriate crossing weather.

Likely, on Thursday or Friday, we will move down to Lake Worth. There is too much traffic on the weekends in the waterway and we prefer to be hunkered down before then. Thursday at 1930 there is a shuttle launch scheduled. Hopefully we can see it from our location.

Lake Worth is more like the lakes up north, although it is surrounded by condominiums, marinas and very expensive houses. In fact, Arnold Palmer lives on the lake, or so we have been told. We take the dinghy down a little creek, land it on a patch of beach, clamber up the embankment and walk to grocery and marine stores. The grocery store allows boaters to deposit their trash in the dumpster behind the store. This is great, because most locals do not want the boaters around. I can understand that some cruisers caused problems in the past, but it sure makes it difficult for the ones who follow behind.

The wind generator is whirring away again and keeping our batteries topped up. It is so good to have all systems working again. But, I must qualify that, we haven’t tried the watermaker yet. It needs to be run for a half hour before we can taste the water and we need to be in the open ocean before we can run it. If any oil or fuel by-products come into contact with the membrane of the watermaker, then the membrane is ruined. So, as you can imagine, we are extremely careful to only run it while in clean open water. That test will have to wait. As the watermaker worked fine before we ‘pickled’ it for the lay-up, there is no reason it won’t work fine now. I hope.

Well, that is what is happening here. Not near as much as the last few weeks, but it sure feels better.

Stay warm up there and watch out for the snow. A little bird told us that Barrie had 5 inches the other day. Winter is closing in soon. Light the fires and cuddle on the couch with your hot chocolate. And write long letters to your boat-bound friends.

Hugs to all, Murray & Heather aboard Windswept IV

Fall Update

It has been a while since I wrote, and I am sorry but we have been very busy. This retired life is hell. How did we ever find time to work?

Speaking of work, we left Killarney Sept 25th. The departure was delayed one day due to a road wash-out. Yes, the only road into or out of Killarney was closed. Luckily, only for 36 hours. But, it certainly gives you that isolated feeling.

Once we did get away, we headed to assist my mom with her move. From there, visits were made to the rest of our family and friends in Ontario. Oct 17th, found us headed south to our boat once again.

We took the suncover off and unlocked the hatches. What was that awful smell? I explored below decks while Murray checked out the engine etc. The bilges were full of water ( due to 15 inches of driving rain during hurricane Gabrielle ) and this had encouraged the growth of mildew. But the worst smell was coming from my box of canned goods. I cautiously lifted the lid. Yuck. The pop cans had exploded and their contents had drained into the box and rusted all of the rest of my canned goods. Hundreds of dollars of stores. Destroyed. Another lesson learned – don’t store carbonated beverages over the summer in the south, as they blow up!

So, our work was on. I washed all of the inside of the boat with vinegar & water or bleach and water to destroy mildew spores. Murray waxed the hull, and prepped the bottom for paint. We hired a sign painter to touch up the name and prepare a decal for the stern. A fiberglass wizard was also hired to fix the chips in the stern due to contact with dinghys.

Eventually, Windswept IV looked as good as new. The insurance survey was done, our lockers were full and it was time to set sail for another adventure. Did someone mention a hurricane? Just then Michelle popped up in the Gulf to give us more grey hairs.

We did leave the dock on Nov 6th and turned the bow southward. Well, sort of… it is the St John River and meanders in every direction.

Now, plans are to spend some time at the SSCA gathering in Melbourne, meet friends in Vero and then wait for a window to cross to the islands.

We will be in touch.

Heather & Murray aboard Windswept IV

Killarney Fall

Well, things are slowing down around here now. Only a few boats on our docks each night. Sometimes only one boat. Weekends are busier, with local people getting gas, fishermen renting boats and buying worms.

The townsfolk seem happier. They love to see the tourists come in the spring, but by late August, they are also glad to see them leave.

The radio is extremely quiet, with only occassional calls for “the Sportman’s dockmaster” or “Killarney Mountain Lodge”.

We have cut our hours back and are now on duty from 8 am until 5 pm + ( depending on traffic ). Days off are few and far between, as there are no replacements available. But, we are enjoying the shorter work days.

The trees have started to change colour already. More from drought than from frost. But, there are spots of red showing up here and there.

This week, we had the opportunity to spend a night at the Johnie Lake outpost camp. It was ( as most of the structures of the lodge ) built by Fruehoff and used as a hunt camp. Currently it is used for day visits by guests. There are rooms and beds for many overnight guests, but that seldom occurs now. The lights are propane and any power needed is created by a generator. A lovely spot only accessible by water and that even requires a 20 min ride, at planing speeds. Above us, the half moon competed with the stars for our attention. The call of the loon was the only sound heard as night fell around us. A beautiful evening.

Our spare time is spent checking the lists of parts needed to take back to the boat. There are still a few things to gather up and then we will be close to ready.

The plan is to leave here early on the last week of Sept, help Mom empty her house and move into her new place. After that, visits with Jeremy & Cynthia and Steve & Tracey, along with Mom Rand and the rest of the Rand family. Then, check in with the Doc, visit some good friends and hit the road. Likely that will occur by mid to the 3rd week of Oct.

So, that’s the news from here. What’s happening in your world?

Heather & Murray

Update on Killarney

Hi everyone,

The power is out here currently, so our jobs have slowed down momentarily. Time to write and catch you all up on our summer.

The docks have been full for the last few days. Each day many vessels leave and others come to replace them. Thousands of litres of fuel are pumped daily and a head pump-out for almost every boat that comes to the gas dock.

The wind is blowing hard today, which creates a lot of current through the channel. This, of course, makes docking a challenge. Dock staff have almost landed in the water several times today while assisting with docking.

Killarney ahs started the summer rush. The coming weekend is the Fish Fry and the town will be jumping! No parking places to be found and a lot of police around to keep an eye on the drinking. There is a band Sat and Sun and dancing under “the big top”.

The biggest selling item in town this year is a tee- shirt. It says ” Killarney, a quaint drinking village with a fishing problem”. The local gift shop has sold out twice!

As usual, the dock staff here are great kids. They are game to do anything asked of them and work very hard. But, they also can play hard as well. A few hangover to be expected this weekend.

Otherwise, all is well with us. Healthy and happy. Murray has carved 4 or more walking sticks and they are a hot commodity amongst the staff at the lodge.

Hope all of you are having a great summer as well. Likely even hotter than it is up here! Steve, did you ever get your central air?

Hugs to everyone. Heather & Murray

Message for website

Hello everyone,

It has been a while since our last message and we are now in Killarney at Killarney Mountain Lodge, hard at work as the dockmasters.

In case you have never travelled Georgian Bay, I will attempt to describe what we see each day from the Boathouse.

The water in the channel is quite green in colour and very clear. Current driven by the wind keeps the water flowing with varying speed past our docks. The southern side of the channel, the George Island side, is mostly high pink granite cliffs covered with pine forests. A few cottages or camps peek out amongst the trees.

This side of the channel is the town of Killarney. Three hundred residents stay here year round. But, in summer the population swells with tourists on boats or visiting by car. The fish and chips sold from the school bus on the dock is world famous and the lines of hungry tourists often stretch out a ways. It sure is worth waiting for, but I must admit we go there before and after the big crowds of summer.

The Pittfield’s General Store carries most anything you need to make your meals complete and even rent videos to pass your time. An adjacent laundromat is also very handy.

The Quarterdeck carries gifts and treasures galore. Channel Marina next door, has scoop ice cream. Across the street, is a small pizza place.Killarney Marine and Rigging, next along, can repair most any inboard engine problem and carries some basic marine supplies. Gateway Marina, further to the west, serves breakfast and makes subs and sandwiches, along with renting dock space.

Sportsman’s Inn is a very large, very old two story building. There is a tiny but busy bar and a dining room downstairs. Rooms are still available to rent upstairs. The marina at the Sportsman’s has the majority of the docks in town, with slips on both town side and George Island side. A water taxi, Tinkerbelle, goes back and forth.

There are several other businesses in town, including a bank and the LCBO, 2 bed and breakfast spots and a couple of campgrounds.

Today, while sitting and writing this note, I was watching out the doorway towards the channel. I spotted a black object bobbing in the water. Looking more closely, I realized that it was a bear! It swam across from the mainland side and climbed up on the rocks on George Island. It was huge!! Hopefully, it doesn’t get into any of the camps.

Well, that is the bear/bare facts of our view from the docks. Further notes to follow soon.

Heather & Murray hard aground

Blow ye winds, heigh ho!

I am not sure how many times that I have said it this winter, but we are pinned down by high winds once again!! For the last seven days, it has blown 20 to 25 plus and higher at night. It sure is good for the batteries as the wind generator howls non stop. But, we go stir crazy. It is possible to leave the boat, but we would get wet with salt water spray. And the air is too cool to wear bathing suits. So, here we sit.

I am baking bread and Murray is doing laundry. Laundry is quite a process aboard, as you can imagine. We put water in three buckets. One has soap added, the next two have vinegar added to act as a fabric softener and to remove soap. He uses a new, clean toilet plungerto agitate the clothes and, hopefully, get them clean. Then, into the rinse buckets. He strings a line between the shrouds and the forestay and the wet clothes are attached to that. Securely, we hope for, as you already know, the wind is honking! Today they will beat themselves dry. But the sun is shining and they should smell better.

You may wonder why we bother to do laundry aboard. Well, in the closest port ( 15 miles away ) it costs $3.75 per load. That is to wash. Then the same to dry. So, whenever we can, we do it by hand. Of course, towels and sheets need a machine or at least a much bigger bucket! Boy, do I envy Gramma Bartlett with her wringer that clamped on the end of her washing tub.

The bread just came out of the oven and it is a beautiful sight. Whole wheat, nicely risen and browned. But, I am almost at the end of my supplies. One more packet of yeast, perhaps enough flour for one more baking. Cupboards are almost bare. If the wind doesn’t slow down soon, we may have to eat Kraft Dinner!

Still hope to reach the US before month end. But….. who knows.

Stay well, all of you. And write.

Hugs, Murray & Heather

Abacos

Hello everyone,

When last we wrote we were still in Cambridge Cay and watching weather. The storm lasted quite a while that time and we were pinned down there for at least a week. Finally the winds died enough that we could move on and we sailed to Norman’s Cay. Friends there had been very successful catching lobster, so we went diving with them. Nothing, nada, not an antenna seen that day! But Murray did spear a couple of fish for dinner.

Later the next day, we sailed to Rose Island, near Nassau. A quiet anchorage with few boats around. At daybreak, we motored out through the cut and into the tongue of the ocean for the 40 mile sail to Royal Island in Eleuthera. Two fishing lines deployed and again nothing! This has been a bad year for fishing.

Early the next morning we headed into Spanish Wells, to the marina. We had 3 weeks worth of laundry, two weeks worth of garbage and empty larders to fill. We arrived at the dock by 9:30 and had the whole day to blitz the jobs. Our friend and local fishing guide/pilot ( the boat type not the flying type ) Woody Perry came in later the same day with a boat load of fish. Murray stood nearby as he cleaned them, holding ziplock bags and looking forlorn. The boat owner gave him some tuna steaks, some mutton snapper and also some dolphin or mahi-mahi. Fresh tuna steaks on the barbie that night!

Woody and his wife Phyllis invited us to their home the next day and we enjoyed a steak dinner with them. It was great to see them again and spend some time with their family.

Back to Royal Island to await a window to head to the Abacos. On the 3 mile trip from Spanish Wells, Murray caught a 10 lb mutton snapper! What a happy guy. 🙂 The weather the next day was iffy, but better than the ones to come, so off we go again.

It is a 70+ mile run, out in the Atlantic with depths up to 5 – 6000 meters. And the waves can be huge. So, of course they were! At times we were heeled over at 30 degrees with waves still towering above us . The wind was 15 to 20 with gusts to 25+. We ran the jib and a triple reefed main and while surfing down waves, saw boat speeds of 9+knots!

Zzzzing went the fishing line and Murray pulled in a lovely 3 ft dolphin fish. I am not sure who was more exhausted by the end of that fight!

Once we reached the Abacos, the next problem was to find a cut through the reef that was safe to enter. Waves were breaking all the way across the first one, so on we went. The second entrance was better, but the swell was still huge. Murray’s steady hand guided us safely into the calm waters of the Sea of Abaco. We continued on to anchor near Tiloo Cay.

During the night, the lightning started. And then the rain and wind. Gusts of 50 knots were recorded, and the winds came from every direction. Our anchor held us securely all night, but we didn’t sleep much.

Friends arrived on the 31st and have rented a house in Great Guanna for a week. So, currently we are anchored nearby and swim, snorkel and visit with them daily.

Plans are to spend most of April in the Abacos, then sail to Cape Canaveral in Florida and make our way up the ICW to the St John River and Jacksonville. The boat will be hauled there and stored for the summer.

And that’s what been happening in our life. What’s up in yours? Stay in touch as we love to get mail.

Murray & Heather

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