Hello everyone,

Life is still good aboard Windswept IV. We have left George Town, finally. We headed north into the Exumas with Fred & Cindy Meyer aboard and spent several days exploring Lee Stocking Cay and the small cays in that vicinity. After leaving them in Barreterra, we meandered our way up the Exuma chain, snorkeling and fishing as we went. We spent a wonderful afternoon Ohing and Awing over the reefs at the Sea Aquarium in Exuma Park. Wow, is that worth a stop! No fishing is allowed and the fish sure know it. The groupers swim freely and don’t hide in the holes as is usual. Some of them were huge ( 20 lbs )! And the colours on the reef…. I could go on & on.

The wind was blowing SE 15+ knots – perfect time to cross over to Eleuthera. It was a great sail, but no fish. We made the 40 miles in 7 hours anchor to anchor. Due to the wind direction, we stayed out by Poison Point in Rock Sound. John & Kristen on Shivaree had caught both a grouper and a mutton snapper and invited us for dinner. In the morning both boats moved closer to town and blitzed the laundry and grocery store. Boy, this is a much better laundry – $2 per load but it actually fills in the usual time! And the grocery store is wonderful – shelves full of things we haven’t seen in months. We try not to go too crazy as it is still Bahamas prices.

The next day was a downwind slog for 40 miles. We tied the main out on one side and poled the jib on the other and flew. The only fish we managed to catch were barracuda. No fish dinner tonight. The entrance to Hatchet Bay was wild due to the wind direction and speed. My heart was in my mouth but Murray brought us through safely. Inside is a large bay with a grassy bottom and we had trouble getting our anchor set well. Some other members of George Town fleet were poised here to move up to Royal Island and then to the Abacos. Radios crackled with greetings as we shared stories.

Well, we plan to spend a few days here in Hatchet Bay. Perhaps rent a car and tour Harbour Island. Then we will move to Royal Island and await a window to go to the Abacos. This involves a passage of 50+ miles on the ocean. So, we will wait until conditions are right.

We have been asked to give a list of things that worked and things that didn’t and also a ” wish we had ” list. Here goes.

Things that worked:

1. upgrade boat and cruise local waters to find glitches. No bargains to be had below the border. Best to get to know new equipment.

2. batteries – we have four 6v golf carts ones and they are in the majority on boats. We have the golf carts on the house bank and a group 27 for start battery. This has been great.

3. charging these – we use solar, wind and a 100 amp alternator. It has worked for us! Solar – 100 to 150 watt array ( we use Siemens ). Wind – Air Marine is quite quiet and produces well. Energy out must = energy in or nothing runs!

4.power – if need 120v AC suggest an inverter/charger combo ie Heart with integrated controller and alternator regulator plus battery monitor system ie Link 2000R. Being able to constantly see what power is coming in or going out has been a big plus.

5. refrig – have installed 12v DC water cooled cold plate refrig. It works OK but the usual insulation in ice boxes is AWFUL. Suggest upgrade.

6. communications – ham/SSB unit is indispensable. Boat-to-boat, weather info, contacts in Ontario,e-mail. If not in budget, would recommend at least a receiver. Strongly suggest getting ham ticket if time allows. E-mail – has been wonderful. We are cheap so Juno is the right price for us. Others work as well. Learn to use it before you leave. Phone cards – make sure you have both Bell and AT&T cards before you leave. Hard to get card without address. Arrange to be charged to credit card. In Bahamas, the Batelco card is the cheapest way to phone ( $1.25 per min to Canada).

7. computer – again indispensable. For navigation ( using the Captain program and digital charts ), downloading weather-fax ( connected to ham radio ), e-mail ( communications with home and friends has been incredible ), word processing and games.

8. fuel – we added extra tankage so that when making passages we have 60 gallons in tankage and 12 on deck. A Baha filter is a MUST. Filter ALL fuel into the tank. We jerry can all fuel so that there is time to run it through the filter which removes dirt and water. We have seen many boats having fuel cleaned or tanks removed.

9. water – we only have 40 gals in tanks with 12 gals on deck. Not a problem in ICW or Florida. In Bahamas we must conserve. Be prepared to collect rain water, but buy RO water when available. Most communities sell RO and cistern or brackish water is available to use for showers etc. A watermaker would be nice but they break down frequently and total costs for water last year was $50! Hard to justify. Estimate $ 1+ per gal to make your own water. They use a lot of energy and power systems must be upgraded.

10. waste – offshore we dump directly overboard. Must have Y-valves to make system legal in US. Also be prepared to carry garbage for several weeks. Separate garbage – food scraps overboard, paper burnt on shore , pop and beer cans crushed, others washed.

11. sun protection – biminis are important! Full enclosures can be useful in ICW but hot down south. Make bimini and awnings as wide as possible.

12. propane – readily available

13. electronics – only have speed and depth and speed does’t always work. Loran is never on and GPS never off. Radar ( 24 mile Furuno ) has been worth it – to monitor ships that pass in night. Also useful for navigation.

14. anchoring – go heavy. We use 35 lb CQR with 75 ft 3/8 chain and 200 ft 5/8 rode as main anchor. A 35 lb Bruce with 25 ft 3/8 chain and 200 9/16 rode is our second anchor. Plus a large Danforth with chain and rode. Spend time choosing site and setting the anchor and then you will sleep well. Develop a method of communicating during the anchoring process – yelling does’t work. Use hand signals or walkie-talkies. Buy ” Skipper Bob’s Guide to Anchoring in the ICW ” $15.

15. money – pre-pay credit cards so that cash advances can be taken out with no fee. Cannot access bank accounts in islands.

16. tupperware and zip lock bags – can’t have enough of either.

17. maximize storage aboard and provision heavily before crossing to islands. We cover floor with beer and pop cases.

18. a cart – to carry laundry, gas cans, groceries etc. The inexpensive West Marine unit failed the first year and we up-graded to the $100 model. It is great and still working.

19. jugs – for water and fuel. May have to carry for several blocks. Make covers for all jugs or they will deteriorate in the sun in one year.

20. Caframo fans – available in Canada and the best on market for boats. Quiet and low power usage. Both 12v and 120 AC.

Things that don’t work:

1. diode blocks – we don’t have them, but many do. And they fail. Recommend using master switches to select battery banks for charging etc.

2. mail – don’t expect to get it. Difficult to arrange and will usually have to wait for it. We have been lucky that our son Jeremy checks bills and pays them for us. Also e-mails us important info.

3. 800 numbers – seldom work in Bahamas and may not work in US. If do telephone banking, get a non-toll-free number before you leave. They may accept collect calls – CIBC does.

4. Taking care of business – not easy! Phones not great, faxes very expensive. Don’t leave loose ends.

5. foods – don’t expect diet to change much. Stock the boat according to usual habits. If the book says ” buy corned beef” but you hate it, don’t buy it! But do fill up with cans before you leave home – car is available and you know where to shop. US foods are no bargain now.

6. most metal parts – all corrode in salt air. Require constant cleaning and lubrication.

7. screens – standard screens will not keep no-seeums out of boat. They will make life miserable. Either use special no-seeum screen or a product called Screenproof available at Ace Hardware. Sprays on screens and lasts for weeks. Hint – if wind dies, put in screens!

8. clothing – take less! Bathing suits, shorts and tee’s. But it’s cold in the ICW – need mitts and toques sometimes.

Wish we had:

separate shower stall boat with heavier carrying capabilities swim platform better self- steering unit ( current CPT unit has periods of gross stupidity followed by times of independent inspiration ) bigger hard bottom dinghy ( buy biggest you can afford and carry and 10+ hp motor)

That’s about it. Sorry this went on so very long. Hope it helps someone.

All to best to all,

Heather & Murray Rand
aboard Windswept IV
Ham Radio VE3 ZUA

Hi everyone,

It’s about time to leave George Town and move on up the chain. Depending on weather, of course, the plan is to head up the Exuma Islands stopping at the cays that we missed on the way down. We will cross to Eleuthera and Royal Island and then head up to the Abacos. Connections may be few and far between, so don’t expect to hear from us for a while.

Life here has been good – other than the cost of groceries. I can’t get used to paying $4 for a bag or pretzels or nacho chips! Canned good also are outrageous – $4.50 for a large can of orange juice, $ $1.80 for a can of peas or corn. We tried to bring as much as possible with us, but eventually the cupboards are bare. Flour is reasonable – $ 2.50 for 5 lbs. I have got sourdough starter in my frig and bake bread several times per week. Another cruiser made soda biscuits! I was going to get her recipe, but I think that’s a bit silly!

We have recently had settled weather and have ventured outside with the dinghy to snorkel and fish. A rather large shark cruised by us, so we decided to fish from the dinghy. Caught a grouper on the line – about 5 lbs. Murray cleaned it and then put the carcass on a hook and dropped it overboard. About an hour later, he heard the line zzing out and grabbed his reel. A major fight ensued with the fish trying to dive under the boat and Murray reeling him in. Eventually, he had about 3 feet of a nurse shark out of the water alongside. The shark was 5 or 6 ft long, but we didn’t really want to land it. Murray let out a little line and the shark broke free. Entertained the anchorage for a while.

We will fish again later today – we had to come back and make more lures after yesterday’s trip. Two lures lost and no fish. But some days are like that.

We have heard that spring is on the way up north. The ice went out of Port Stanley harbour a few days ago. Dave Tilley said it was ready for us to bring the boat back (. I DON’T THINK SO ! ) A contact this morning said the crocuses were up in Sarnia. So soon it should be warming up. Boat work will start – waxing, painting and all the rest of the preps. Have fun!

Well, not much news here. Life is pretty quiet.

I will write again when possible.

Keep well.

Heather
Heather & Murray Rand
aboard Windswept IV
Ham Radio VE3 ZUA

Hi everyone,

We are still in George Town and enjoying ourselves!! The regatta winds up today with the award ceremony.

We raced the two races on Windswept IV. One race was held in the harbour with a Bahamian start. Boats lined up at anchor with sails down and horns blew for each class. When our horn blew, we pulled the anchor and sails up, and motored ahead to the start line. Motors off when the start line is close. We were first over the line for our start and also first to the first mark. But that didn’t last. A Cardinal ’46 slowly caught us and we diced it out for a while. The second time around the course, they got away from us. We crossed the line second in class, but may be bumped down on corrected time to third. It is very close.

The second race was Around the Island on Friday. Lots of wind – 20 kns. We would have to tack out the opening in the reef!! The Cardinal dropped out as that was not something they wanted to do. The start was calculated so that you started on a your handicap for the event. We started 54 mins after some boats and others started 60 mins after us. That way the boat to finish first WINS. But, it was a reach both ways up and down the island with only a short beat out the reef. We didn’t have much chance. But we had lots of fun. There is also prizes for catching fish. We had 3 fishing lines in the water at one point, but no fish. We passed several boats in our class and got third place.

During the racing,other boats broke forestay, backstay and steering gear! The wind wasn’t that strong, so we were surprised. We broke nothing and no one got hurt. Although we caught the wind generator with the fishing pole! We had eleven crew in the long race. They all got wet, but that’s all!

Someone asked questions about how we do this e-mail stuff. I write the letters on board. Then we put the computer in a big zip-lock, then a backpack and carefully load it in the dinghy. Then we head for shore. Murray hands me the backpack after the dinghy is secured to the dock and we look for someplace to connect. In the Bahamas, Batelco ( Bahamas Telephone Co ) will sometimes allow connections. Or other stores may. We ask around until we find the local spot. Hike to there, and if they are open, unpack the computer. We pay approx $2/min to connect to a Juno number in Florida. We cannot receive photos, attachments or greeting cards. We do not have internet access, but only e-mail. But, it allows us to stay in touch with everyone.

Here in the George Town area are several beautiful reefs on which we have been snorkeling. A group of us will make a day of it, with a picnic on a deserted beach. We move the big boat frequently, depending on what we want to do. In fact, other boats have commented on that. Most boaters put the hook down and stay put for 2 months or more. We move to town if we want to go out late at night, or down to Elizabeth Island if we want to get away from the crowds. We have no problem pulling the anchor and moving somewhere else!

Life is busy though. So far, we haven’t even made it to the Rake & Scrape on Monday nights. Cheap rum, cold beer and hot music!! Sounds like my cup of tea. Maybe this week – depending on weather. It is not a nice trip across the harbour when the wind is blowing hard. It is a 1.5 mile run from anchorage to town! There are pot lucks on the beach, cocktails here and there, and all the town activities also. Laundry needs doing and grocery shopping can take hours. Every time you move a half a block in town, more friends are bumped into and it is time to chat and catch up on news. One afternoon, it took us almost 2 hours to move a block! Then, water must be fetched, both drinking and utility water. The drinking water is bought for $!/gal. The tap water here we use to wash dishes and us, but don’t drink as it is quite salty.

And then, boat maintenance. The rule is ” a boat job per day ” to keep up with repairs. When company visits, we fall behind. Today we did 6 jobs already and have fuel, water and e-mail yet to do.

Dave & Micky Tilley, from Port Stanley, visited for a week recently. They returned to the land of snow and ice before the races started. But Dave had cleaned the whole bottom of the hull – removing grass and barnacles. I am sure it contributed to our speed in the race. Thanks Dave!!

Last night, the local businesses sponsored a dinner for the cruisers. Free food and booze! Everyone was there,as you can imagine. Over 400 boats spending $$ locally is a big influence on the local economy. And they appreciate it.

The cruisers also built a new stage in the park, with lights and a sound system! It was used for the Talent Show on Tuesday night. I had an idea for an act, but didn’t have time to put it together. Perhaps next year, if we are here.

Well, the captain is hungry and need his lunch. Our best to all.

Heather & Murray Rand

PS Did laundry this morning and thought I would relate my experience to you. The machine filled fairly quickly and the clothes washed fine. But after 30 mins the light for the rinse cycle was still on. I opened the lid to take a peek and saw the water was entering at a fast DRIP, DRIP ! I waited patiently for another 30 minutes. STILL not full of water. After another half hour, I borrowed a bucket from a boater on the dock and carried bucket loads. The tap in the bathroom would not accomodate the bucket under it, but someone had left part of a Clorox bottle with which I filled the bucket. It took at least 6 trips with the pail to fill the washer! Finally, the rinse cycle started. I had been there 2 hours and had managed to get my clothes washed. Forget the dryers! I put the clean clothes in a garbage bag ( to protect them ) and we loaded the dinghy and headed back to the boat. The wind was up and the waves were awful! Waves were crashing into the dinghy and over my head every couple of minutes. I had a death grip on the garbage bag, as I didn’t want to get the clean clothes salty again already. After a 15 minute dinghy ride, we got the laundry to the main ship and strung the clothes-line out. After a few more hours, the laundry was finally dry and folded. Life in the islands!

Heather
aboard Windswept IV
Ham Radio VE3 ZUA

Hello everyone,

Well, we have arrived at the destination of most cruisers for the winter months – George Town.

The town is very small, with most services available ( for a cost ). There are grocery stores with everything from hearts of palm to NY strip steaks. The ship comes weekly with fresh vegetables. Between times, the ladies at the straw market sell home-grown peppers and onions, along with hats, t-shirts, baskets etc. There is a small marine store with parts for some projects. The UPS store will arrange for ordering of parts form West Marine. Several bars and restaurants offer their services, even a school bus serving burgers & hot dogs. Mom’s bakery van is parked on the road side and she sells bread, rolls, donuts, and cakes. All of which are served up with a hug and a “God Bless You “!

The harbour or anchorage area is huge – approximately 7 miles long and a mile wide. Boats anchor off of several beaches – Hamburger ( so called because of hamburger stand ), Volleyball , and Sand Dollar. Some boats never move from their spot. We have moved every few days to get more protection or shore-side services, or even to get away from the crowds to an anchorage off by ourselves. On the shore, the cruisers have organized exercises, volleyball games, evening cocktail parties, baseball games, beach walks, and yoga. Sometimes it becomes a little too organized for some people.

Each morning the ‘net gives us the latest news and weather and then ads from local businesses. Then the cruisers news of upcoming events. And then cruisers with problems looking for solutions come on the radio. We all help each other with parts and knowledge.

The trip down here from Staniel was lovely. We anchored off of Little Galliot Cay for one night. Very early in the morning, we heard the anchor noises from boats around us. Everyone was moving – we were anchor-up by 0645 and were the last ones! We headed out of Galliot Cut with the favourable current. The fishing line went in as soon as we entered the cut. A little later, while Murray was on the radio, we had our first bite. The line on the rod goes zzzzing!! And a fish is on. But, by the time he came up on deck, it was gone. It had shook off the hook. But, within a half hour, the rod goes zzing again and Murray fights to reel this one in. It’s a dolphin fish or dorado or mahi-mahi and are they beautiful! He got it to the stern and then tried to gaff it to land it. And it got off the hook!! Boy, was he sad that time. We called another boat that had landed a 48″ one for helpful hints and while he was on the radio, the rod sings out again. This one we landed! It was 36″ long and weighed 8 lbs. They have a blunt head, a small mouth and are bright green on top, yellow below with a yellow tail. Just before the cut into George Town, we caught another dolphin fish, also 36”. Murray was very excited and thrilled to catch two of the wonderful eating fish. He filleted them and I cooked them “blackened” ( fried with cajun spices ). Mmmmmm! We gave away half of one of the fish, as we couldn’t keep all of it in the small freezer.

We had questions about how we catch conch. That is extremely easy, once you spot them. The biggest job is to find the conch. We snorkel and dive and look sometimes for hours before finding one. As they move so slowly, it is simply a matter of picking them up. Then comes the difficult part – getting the meat out of the shell. Murray counts two rows of horns and then punches a hole. He inserts a small tool and severs the muscle that holds the critter in the shell. It should then fall out into his hand. The cleaning is a messy, time-consuming job. And when all is done, you have a piece of meat about palm-sized that is about the consistency of a rubber tire. In order to eat it, you must pound the meat with a hammer until it is tender. It is served in various ways, raw in a salad, fried, or mixed with flour and spices and fried as a fritter. I usually serve it in a creole style – stewed with rice and tomatoes.The nicest shells, we clean and make into conch horns. Murray is very good at making these and has several out on loan to other boats.

Last week, we sailed around the island on one day while Jeff Helsdingen was visiting. During that passage we caught another dolphin fish! So, if the larder gets too low, we will just go for a day sail.

Now, we snorkel, walk, shell, visit other boaters, bake bread, do boat work, blow our conch horns and put in many hours quite happily. When the wind blows and the generator makes power, we watch videos ( ours or borrowed ones ). If the wind doesn’t blow, we read. Most nights we are in bed before nine pm. We wake with the sun usually, but spend the early hours on the various radio nets. Re the question on time – the time here is the same as most of you, EST. But the temperature is wonderful – low 70’s at least. My sweatshirt has yet to be worn this winter. Bathing suits or shorts are the uniform of the day.

We plan to stay in the George Town area for a few months. The area code has changed here and the fax number to contact us should be 242-336-2645. Address the fax to Windswept IV, c/o Exuma Market. They announce the arrival of faxes daily, so we quickly would get an important message.

I hope everyone up north is well and weathering the winter . We hear that an early spring may be expected as the ground hog died ( before or after seeing his shadow?). Stay away from any flu bugs and keep warm.

Love to all Heather
Heather & Murray Rand
aboard Windswept IV
Ham Radio VE3 ZUA

Hi everyone,

Life aboard Windswept IV continues at a slow and easy pace.

We sailed into Staniel Cay on Jan 21st, and I do mean sailed. Murray had us tacking into the anchorage! There was one other boat also tacking in – another Canadian vessel, of course. It was Shivaree, with John and Kirsten aboard. We had crossed to Florida with them last spring. In Staniel, we visited the grocery stores. There are 3 stores – the pink store, the blue store, the general store. None of them are very large and none have much stock. We visited all of them to obtain the supplies that we needed. Murray also bought a spear and sling launcher. He thinks that he will attempt to spear fish and lobster. Time will tell.

The larder re-stocked and the e-mail sent and the moms telephoned, it’s time to move again. So, when the tide was right and the light was right, we picked our way into Pipe Creek. It is a area oval in shape with numerous cays protecting it. The larger ones are Pipe, Rat, Thomas and Overyonder Cays. It has many reefs and shallows and is extremely tricky to enter. We made it in with never less than 6 whole inches under the keel! The wind and current gave us lots of trouble, but we managed to get both anchors securely positioned. Now, its time to play again and all of the Port Stanley fleet is here ( except Vertigo ). We spend several days swimming, snorkeling, diving for conch and exploring these lovely islands. We harvested many conch which are in the freezer and saved the shells to make horns. Murray fished off of the boat and caught several small ones.

But, one morning the wind switched directions. Now, the rocks behind us are uncomfortably close. And the wind is supposed to build. Time to move again, and the high tide is also at a good time of day. So, we pull the anchors carefully. When the last one is up, I try to turn to starboard and head out. She won’t come into that strong wind and there is not a lot of room before the next boat and no depth to go around!! So, my heart in my mouth, I revved her up and backed away from the rocks. As soon as I got some space and speed, I quickly cranked her around. Murray hadn’t even noticed that there was any problem, and I guess there wasn’t one as I handled it OK. But, my heart got a work-out that day. We re-traced our path but plowed sand for 200 meters. Luckily, no rocks or coral heads.

Back to Staniel Cay and anchor down at Big Major. And only one anchor needed! So much better than two. The holding here is wonderful. The bottom has been referred to as ” velcro mud “. Now, it is time to dive the grotto at Thunderball Cave. It is called that as it was used in the movie ” Thunderball”. We took a can of squeeze cheese with us to feed the fish. What a laugh!! They would come right to the nozzle as though they were babies after a nipple. I was mobbed by sergeant majors, a small yelow and black stripped fish.! But it is dangerous to laugh while snorkeling – the water runs into your mask. Once we got past the feeding frenzy, we entered the cave. The timing was a little off and the current was running already. So, we didn’t stay too long, but it was lovely.

Since then, we have been in the water most days exploring one reef or another. We have been in the water with a nurse shark nearby, snorkeled on deep reefs and in current. We are getting much braver and better at this. Murray has carried his spear but not shot at anything other than practice shots. I hate to see the fish run from us as they do when you are hunting them. I like to just hang there and watch as they go about there usual lives. But, we may need the skills of the spear sometime. And I would love to find a lobster.

The wind is blowing strongly again and will for a few days.Tundra is close by and so is Vertigo I. More reunions to come! Then we plan to head to Black Point Settlement, Little Farmer’s Cay, Lee Stocking Island and on to George Town. It is now Feb and we need to be moving on. Company’s coming – maybe.

Anyone who wants to contact us quicker, can send a fax to us c/o Exuma Market at 809-336-2645.

Distances between cays are short now. The total from Wardwick Wells to Staniel is only 16 miles! When we went to Pipe Creek it was only 7 miles. To get to Black Point from Staniel is only 5 miles and to Little Farmers only 15 miles. From Little Farmers to George Town is only 40 miles. So, we never have too far to go before we anchor again.

Our best to all up north and hope you are weathering this winter well. When the snow blows hard and the temperature drops below freezing, think of us. If I feel shivers now and then, I will know it’s from one of you up north.

Love to all,

Heather
Heather & Murray Rand
aboard Windswept IV
Ham Radio VE3 ZUA

Hi everyone,

We stayed in Nassau until after New Years so that we could experience another Junkanoo. New Year’s Eve was quiet – we went to bed by 8:30 but were awakened by the fireworks at midnight. Then we arose again at 4 AM and headed in to the dock just before dawn. The parade was still going strong and we stayed and enjoyed all of the colourful costumes and music until after 9 AM. We had been invited to dinner by friends and spent the rest of the day chatting and drinking and eating. Not a lot different from home, just a different locale.

The first few days of the year were spent stocking the boat with fresh vegetables and other perishables, doing laundry, filling water tanks and generally getting ready to head out to the islands. Murray’s ankle was bothering him again, so I kept it wrapped and tried to keep him from walking too far. You may remember that he wrenched it again during the catamaran rescue. We also watched some of the local racing fleet in action. Their boats are narrow and have a huge sail plan. The crew balances the boat by moving out onto planks that are wedged into the cockpit. The more wind, the more crew out on the plank. And tacking is quite a trick! But the competition is fierce, with the usual shouting. On the beach, crowds watch with interest and much cheering. They sell beer and conch fritters from stands set up by enterprising individuals. But, there is no bathrooms on the beach – at least none that we found. So, you have to watch the beer consumption.

On Jan 6th, with at least 15 knots of wind, we upped anchor and headed for Allen’s Cay ( pronounced key ) in the Exuma’s. The passage was tricky as we had to pass between two areas – the Yellow and White Banks. Due to the overcast day, we decided not to try to pass over the banks as we didn’t know if we could see the coral heads clearly. But, we needn’t have worried – they were quite visible. They look like a big black spot on the water and you must go around them as it is possible they are only just below the surface.

We arrived in Allen’s just before dusk and we greeted by friends on Silent Running. Doug showed us the best spot to anchor and told us that we would need both anchors due to the strong current through the area. The wind started to pick up and it blew hard for the next two days. But our anchors held and we slept well. Eventually, the winds died and we could ” go out and play”. We snorkeled the reefs, fished, swam and explored the three islands. Allen’s Cay is home to the rock iguanas. They are used to being fed and have become somewhat aggressive. They may nibble on your ankle as their eyesight is poor. We fed them some cabbage leaves but I threw the leaves! I am not brave enough to try feeding them from my hand.

Doug and Rose showed us the sights above and below water and gave us a couple of lobster in return for some sail repair tape that Murray had picked up for them. We enjoyed a lovely dinner of two lobster tails! And then the wind blew hard again and we were confined aboard again.

On Jan 13th, we upped anchor and moved on to Norman’s Cay. We anchored against the western shore and in just a few minutes Doug had caught a lobster, a fish and a conch. He gave Murray a conch cleaning lesson and gave him some scraps for bait. Murray went out in the dinghy and trolled over the coral heads for a while. He returned with two fish for our dinner – a grunt and a snapper.

The next day, Silent Running moved on to Staniel Cay and we headed inside the south anchorage at Norman’s to explore this island. Just Ducky, with Carol & Joe aboard, were still with us. The island had been taken over by drug smugglers in the ’80’s and had been a dangerous spot to visit. In the anchorage is the wreck of an airplane that crashed in the water. It is now the home to many fish. Many friends from Nassau were anchored here and cocktail parties sprouted like weeds. The days were spent swimming, snorkeling, hunting for conch and fish. It’s a tough life!

MarNel IV, with Pete and Lani aboard, showed up just in time to teach us all about cleaning and cooking conch. Although I certainly did not eat any after last years allergic reactions. They continued the snorkeling and diving lessons begun by Silent Running.

Jan 18th, we sailed to Wardwick Wells in Exuma Park. And I do mean we sailed. The engine was off. Here we picked up a mooring and again started a new round of cocktail parties. There were trails to tramp and beaches to explore. But, no fishing allowed in the park. Or even shelling. Look, but don’t take. We climbed to the top of Boo-Boo Hill were people place momentos of broken gear, parts and pieces and signs with boat names. Murray made a lovely one for Windswept on a piece of flotsam that was washed ashore. We tied it in place on the pile. It was fun to see the names of many friends. Lo n Slo was still in place from last year and we also found Silent Running. snorkeling is next on the agenda and then we will move out and anchor offshore as the moorings are $15/day.

Tomorrow, we will travel 15 to 20 miles to Staniel Cay where I hope to send e-mail and get a few basic supplies. There is also the Thunderball Cave to dive there. The fish will eat out of your hand, supposedly. I am not sure that I will feed them – we will wait and see.

Sorry to be out of touch for so long but there are no phones on the islands that we have visited. When we leave Staniel, the plan is to spend a couple of weeks in Pipe Creek and then on to George Town, eventually.

Don’t worry about us – we are fine and healthy and enjoying these gorgeous sunny days. We will connect when we can.

Love to all, Heather

PS We heard recently that our friends on Vertigo I, Blue Star and Bear Paws all made it across the gulf stream with the last window and are in Nassau. Hail, hail the gang’s all here!! The rest of the Port Stanley boats are only 5 miles away from us now. Big reunions coming up. Now if Tundra can only catch up! They are also in Nassau.

Heather & Murray Rand
aboard Windswept IV
Ham Radio VE3 ZUA

Hello everyone,

I just noticed that I hadn’t written a newsletter for a month – there is lots to tell you about.

We enjoyed our time in Vero Beach and even went for a swim there. The beach was lovely but I didn’t find many shells. From Vero Beach, we headed towards Lake Worth or Palm Beach area where the Vertigo I had friends to visit. We stayed in the area for a few days and then moved down the ICW to Ft Lauderdale. That was the most lift- bridges that we had ever seen in one day – 16!! Too many for us! We anchored in Lake Sylvia for 3 nights. The beach there is quite incredible and there were many people enjoying the sun and sand. The women were in tiny bikinis that Murray quite approved of. He certainly enjoyed the scenery.

From Lauderdale, we motor sailed on the outside to Miami, a distance of 24 miles. We had to go outside as there is a low fixed bridge between the two harbours. The wind was blowing quite hard and the waves tossed the boat around. Vertigo found out that they had to stow things better below as many items hit the floor.Diane said she couldn’t go below because it was “nasty down there”. The entrance to Miami is always rough and busy, but we lucked out and didn’t meet any cruise ships. Soon we were snuggly anchored off of the Miami Yacht Club. The club allowed us to use the showers and facilities for a small daily fee. We were soon given the scoop on dinghy docks, shopping, laundry and marine stores by boats that had been waiting for weeks to cross to the islands. We settled in to wait as well.

On three different occasions, we thought we had a window to head across the Gulf Stream. It is only 48 nautical miles as the crow flies, but the current forces you to sail another 15 miles at least. That still isn’t far and people wonder why it is such a big deal. If the wind is strong and against the current, the waves can be huge and very dangerous. The wind is also stronger in the stream. Each time the weather looked good, we filled the boat with water and fuel, hauled the dingy on deck, checked our grocery supply and moved the boat closer to the outlet to the sea. Each time, the window was slammed in our face!

Finally, as we were planning a dinner party, Herb the weather guru said there was a little opening. The radio came alive as boats decided whether to go or not. We opted to go. So, on Dec 21st at 9:30 at night, we pulled up our anchor. Vertigo had been in another anchorage for a few days, and hadn’t heard the radio calls until almost too late to join us. But, they decided to go for it and a flotilla of eight vessels picked their way out of Miami harbour in the dark. Tugs and pilot boats speeded past us. As we got closer to the entrance, the waves got wilder. But, Miami is always like this – at least that is what I told myself. On we went, into the dark ocean.

The waves were only 2 – 4 feet, with a large swell of approx 10 ft that tossed the boat side to side. The wind was 15 kts just below the bow and we were able to run the mainsail, which stabilized us slightly. Due to the wind and waves, we were unable to make our usual speed. With the current also against us, at times we only made 2-3 kts toward our destination. Vertigo turned back with sea sick crew, but we persisted. As dawn finally lit up the sky, we hoped to see the islands ahead but it wasn’t until 10 am that we actually made it through the cut between Cat Cay and Gun Cay. It is disconcerting to approach so close to a rocky shore after being in the deep blue. But, to safely enter the banks, it is necessary to come within 100 ft of the shore and follow the deeper water around the tip of Gun Cay. Then, you slip along the edge of a sand bar until reaching the deeper water of the Great Bahama Banks. I say deeper, but it is 10 – 15 ft deep and crystal clear!! It was wonderful to be in the turquoise water again. Now that the sun was up, we were wide awake , but attempted to nap a little.

The plan was to motor sail all the way to Northwest Channel mark ( which is only a piece of I-beam sticking out of the water ). There we would anchor and sleep for the night, then proceed to Nassau the next day. But, the weather report didn’t look good for the next few days and we needed to keep moving. So, we anchored and napped for a few hours. At midnight, using radar and computer charting, Windswept IV led the way around the marker, between the coral heads and out into the Northwest Channel. It felt as though we were back in the Gulf Stream!! The wind was still 15 + knots on the nose and the waves were “confused”. I thought to myself “These waves aren’t just confused, they are insane!!”. We used the mainsail to steady the boat again and headed toward Nassau, a distance of 50+ miles .When we were still 20 + miles out, Murray was on the ham radio with his usual morning routine calls. But, when he keyed the mike, the auto helm went nuts and took the boat around in a complete 360 degree turn. I was on watch and as you can imagine, the air got a trifle blue for a while. During the last hour or two, every five minutes a wave would crash over the head of the person on watch. Luckily for me, Murray had volunteered to keep a look-out at that time.

At approx noon, Dec 23rd, we called Nassau Harbour Control for permission to enter the harbour. By the time we had cleared customs and immigration, we were so tired that we decide to stay on a dock for the night. With unlimited water, we washed all the salt off of the boat. Then off of ourselves. And then went to sleep. We had slept approx 3 – 4 hours since Monday am. Not near enough! I was staggering as I walked down the dock.

Many of our friends had been in contact with us on radio as we arrived in Nassau. As soon as we left the dock in the morning and anchored in the basin, dinghies headed our way. Very shortly, there was an impromptu party here. A group of friends had Christmas dinner planned and included us in the invitation. So, Christmas Day after a little swim around the boat we joined 12 other boaters for a turkey dinner with all the trimmings. It was lovely. Earlier we had managed to call my mom, Steve and Murray’s mom to exchange greetings. We left a Christmas message on Jeremy’s phone.At 830 am, I served as net control for the Cruisheimers Radio Net on 8152 SSB. I was very nervous as this was a new experience for me. It went well. All in all, it was a lovely day spent with good friends.

That night was Junkanoo. Junkanoo is a sort of Mardi Gras- type celebration with parades, music, and costumes. But, it takes place in the middle of the night. That’s ok, cause we are now used to being up all day and night. We napped for a while,and set the alarm for midnight. How do I describe this scene? We walked towards downtown until the sidewalks became almost impassible. Then, we found a spot where even I could see. The costumes are made of crepe paper, feathers, sparkles etc and some are the size of a parade float. But that float is carried by one man – spelled off by many others. There would be 3 or 4 such huge floats followed by many walkers with huge structures on their shoulders. Some even had lights flashing on them. Then there would be bands of drums, cow bells, whistles and conch horns. The marchers would dance down the street. It was an incredible sight. We stayed for 3 hours and then the vee-berth called to us.
Boxing Day excitement was provided by a 50′ catamaran anchored nearby. Well, he thought he was anchored and left the boat. Murray realized that the boat was drifting past our stern ,being carried by the strong current. He dinghyed over and saw that the anchor didn’t even touch the bottom!! He climbed aboard and with many other dinghies pushing on the hull, steered the boat to a new spot and re-anchored it. A digital photo was taken of the event and we hope to have it sent to our web site.

So, here we are in the islands again and e-mail with be difficult . We will try to connect monthly to up-date. The current plan is to spend 10 days or so in Nassau and then slowly travel down the Exuma chain towards George Town, Great Exuma. We should arrive there by the end of Jan or early Feb. But, the web site should have updated position reports, so you can track our progress.

All is well with us here and I hope that everyone had a great holiday and wish all the best for ’99.

Love to all, Heather
Heather & Murray Rand
aboard Windswept IV
Ham Radio VE3 ZUA

MERRY CHRISTMAS ALL!!

At this time of the year, we contemplate the deeds and misdeeds of the year going by. Everyone becomes more aware of the fortunes and misfortunes of others. Our pocketbooks are always open, either spending or giving generously.

And even cruisers do the same. We have been collecting and making small gifts to pass to other boaters who share our anchorage on Christmas Day. We have obtained a very small tree – a paper one that folds flat when not in use. We have lights decorating our bimini that are run whenever we have enough battery power to do so. The few Christmas cards and presents to loved ones have been mailed. The baking hasn’t begun but it is 85 F here!! I promise I will do some one cool evening.

Our year’s deeds you are all very much aware of and even most of our misdeeds! We have no regrets for things not done – and few for things that we have done. We miss our friends and family especially at this time of year. But, all of us are very busy with our lives and would see each other seldom. Most communications would take place on the phone. Now, it is e-mail that has stepped in. As I type, I picture each of you seated here with me and laughing or crying as we share tales of our year gone by.

A new year is facing us all and soon a new millennium. What will it bring? Some say disaster, some say joy. I vote for JOY! We plan to continue with this lifestyle for a while yet. Our health is great and we cherish these days that we share together. All too soon, that comes to an end. The immediate plans are to spend the winter in the Bahamas and then, perhaps summer in Rhode Island or Maine. If the dollar recovers, we may purchase a travel trailer or motor-home and land cruise for the hot months. But, who knows? That is many months away and we can hardly plan for the next week!

I hope everyone enjoys their holiday season and wish you all good health and long life!!

Love and hugs to all, Murray & Heather

Heather & Murray Rand
aboard Windswept IV
Ham Radio VE3 ZUA

Hello everyone,

When last I wrote we were still in SC. We enjoyed a great visit there with the Wolffs and finally tore ourselves away from the dock Nov 14th after 4 days!

Do you remember the song ” Moon River” ? Well, that was our next anchorage, just below Savannah. It was lovely and wide and the sunset was gorgeous. One more day of traveling and we were in Florida at Fernandina Beach. The stench of the paper mills and the clouds no-seeums kept us moving along after a brief exploration of town. One day later we anchored in St Augustine. It is such a pretty town and as the Christmas lights were to be turned on in 4 days, we decided to stay. The captains were happy to find a sailor’s consignment store within about a two mile walk. That walk became very familiar and also the winery was down there too. The pause that refreshes!!

From St Augustine, we made a quick passage to Dayton Beach and on to Titusville the next day. There we hit the Dollar stores and got lots of canned goods for the islands. The water-line gets lower and lower! We also introduced the Vertigo crew to the manatees. Drifting in the dinghies in the harbour, we had 5 manatee surfacing around us. In was very easy then to convince the Lesaks that we must depart from the ICW and visit the Canaveral Barge Canal. The wild life there is amazing.

We anchored just outside of the lock and took the dinghies through the lock. There were manatee, dolphins, white pelicans, brown pelicans, wood storks, egrets of 2 sizes, and many blue herons. And that was just on one trip! I really enjoy the passage in the dinghy, as you see so much more from the water level. A little island exploration was next on the agenda and some shell collection. We hated to leave, but wanted to reach Vero before Thanksgiving (Nov 26).

It was a very long day – 66 miles from the anchorage to Vero Beach, but we did make it. There were rain storms all around us but we only got a few sprinkles. The dolphins kept playing in the bow wave and racing us. One leapt in the air right beside the cockpit! So, even though the day was long, it was very enjoyable. We arrived in Vero just in time to sign up for the Thanksgiving Day dinner that the trawler group had organized. Turkey and all the fixings for $7/person plus bring a dish to share. What a feast! Luckily, we walked and then had to walk back to wear off some of the great food. Before dinner, a sailors flea market was held and Murray was in his element. He sold some stuff, but I think he brought more stuff home. How come these Canadians went to the dinner, you ask? Well, we are always up for a party!! It was lots of fun and we met more cruisers as well.

We will be stopped here in Vero for a short while – stocking the boat for the islands. My frig was almost bare. It was the perfect time for Murray to re- insulate it with the foil stuff that we got from Brian & Kathy Marsh. By the way, the last we heard, Tundra was in St Augustine and heading our way.

The immediate plans are – head to Ft Pierce and anchor ( probably Wed or Thurs) and then sail on the outside to West Palm Beach and anchor in Lake Worth for a few days. If we see a weather window coming, we will cross from there. Otherwise, we will head on to Miami and anchor there awaiting weather to cross to the islands. Hopefully, before Christmas.

Also, we won’t send the Christmas newsletter to all of our e-mail recipients this year. Sorry but you already know all the news. I may just import it and send it as a e-mail message. Remember, we can’t read attachments – so don’t send you message with one, please. Take care all, and best wishes for the holiday season.

Murray & Heather

Heather & Murray Rand
aboard Windswept IV
Ham Radio VE3 ZUA

We are enjoying the hospitality of Gail and Meindert Wolff here in Beaufort SC. We are ensconced on their dock and enjoying power, water and showers! The temperature here is in the low 70’s and we are back into shorts.

Halloween was spent in Beaufort NC with lots of trick-or-treaters going boat to boat. As it had turned cold, everyone was eager to press on southward.

We spent a few days in Carolina Beach on another “free” dock that we found out about from the crew of Sturdy Beggar. They have a condo in Carolina Beach but enjoyed the cruising life so much, that they are heading out again soon. Also in Carolina Beach, we had dinner with Mike, Laura, Erin & Shawna Perry. We met Mike and Erin while at anchor there on the way north. We spent a lovely evening with them in their home. Hurricane Bonnie had hit their area fairly hard. They had roof and water damage, but have repaired it already.

The adventures of the Canadian fleet continued into South Carolina with us no longer showing ” how”. Vertigo had learned quite well – they awoke one night on their side when the tide dropped, then dragged when the water came back and then picked up a crab pot when they started the engine! All in one go!! After the TowboatUS guy dove on the prop ( 4 hours later ) and we got underway, we decided a short day was in order and stayed at Barefoot Landing. It is a free dock at an outlet mall. Lots of cruisers there to talk to and share stories with. And even laugh at the morning woes.

We bypassed Georgetown and pressed on to Charleston. Here we paid for our first dock since being re-launched this September. We stayed at the Municipal Marina for one night and managed to see some sights, do laundry, wash the boats, fill all the water tanks, and purchase some grouper for a great dinner for both boats.

We left late the next morning, caught the bridges and carried the current for a while. Even leaving at eleven, we managed to make thirty plus miles before we anchored.

We arrived in Beaufort by noon the next day. Meindert & Gail were out, so Diane and I went to the store and got enough burgers and salad stuff for dinner for everyone. We received the mail pouch that Jeremy had forwarded. Now, I guess I have to balance my checkbook! We will stay here a few days and perhaps meet up with the Tundra crew.

Then, on to Georgia and Florida. We definitely will not make Melbourne for the Seven Seas get-together. Oh well – another year, maybe.

Yesterday was the ” big wind ” back home. I hope everyone survived it well and had minimal damage to their homes. It sounds as though winds reached 100 mph ! That’s hurricane strength!

Take care all. And keep warm.

Love Heather
Heather & Murray Rand
aboard Windswept IV
Ham Radio VE3 ZUA