Author name: jrand

As the tiny island disappeared in our wake, I marvelled at the beauty we had seen during our short visit to this “little bit of paradise”.

Conception is roughly diamond-shaped, approx 3 miles long and wide at the maximums. It is almost completely ringed with dangerous reefs, some extending up to 5 miles from the island. There are two areas to anchor, one on the west side and one on the east side. Even these areas are littered with coral heads and you must keep your eyes open when proceeding. This is not a place to arrive or depart in darkness.

We sailed to Conception Island, from Thompson Bay, Long Island, a distance of approx 40 miles. Another beautiful day under sail. Once anchored, we noticed the roll. The waves wrap around this tiny island as it sits out in the Atlantic, with no protection from the waves except for the surrounding reef. A bumpy night.

In the morning, we hastened to explore. First, a dinghy adventure into the shallow mangrove creeks, in the centre of the island, where the turtles cavort in the warm waters. Wending our way between sandbars, we spotted a few of the sea turtles while another dinghy group, later in the day, saw hundreds! In the sky above us, we saw many tropicbirds, dipping and soaring in groups of 4 or 6. Seldom have we seen more than one tropicbird at a time. They look like a small white tern but have a very long tail plumage, about 6 to 8 inches. Just lovely. Bahamian mockingbirds trilled from the bushes on shore. It was so nice to hear the birds singing in the mornings.

Now it was time to check out a beach, to search for treasures. It seemed as though we were on a slalom course as we threaded our way through the reefs, while fingers of elkhorn coral reached out to snare the dinghy. Whew! We made it. The beach was littered with debris and seaweed, but no beans were found. Seabeans are the seeds from plants that grow in the Amazon rain forest. The pods drop into the waters of the Amazon and the seeds are carried with the currents onto the beaches of the Bahamas and Florida. Some are rare and beautiful. Those we polish and wear as jewelry.

Afternoon found us in the water by those samethey reefs and Doug, from High Stepper, shot himself a nice lobster. We dove several spots before realizing that the tide was very low and the reefs were protruding above the water. How to get out of here? One grounding and one collision with a reef later and we were safely back to the anchorage. Time for a shower and then cocktails with Fran and Mort, aboard Alato, where all of us aboard saw the elusive “green flash” as the sun set into the ocean behind us. Plans were made for diving, beaching and a picnic the next day.

Overnight the wind switched around and was blowing from the south. The boat was lurching, rolling and bounding. Not a good direction for this island. All plans were changed as we decided to use the wind available ( not forecast! )and we hauled anchor to sail on towards Cat Island. One bumpy night was spent there and off we went in the morning, with plans to stop at Little San Salvador.

But, the wind and waves had other ideas. The waves were building from the west and they would roll right into the anchorage there. It was past time for a good nights sleep and this would not give it to us. After discussing our options with High Stepper, we decided to press on and sail to Powell Point, Eleuthera, a total of 70 mles. Here we anchored, just the two boats and the wind died. A wonderful nights sleep! Today we will move on towards Rock Sound, where a friend from our time at Killarney Mountain Lodge, Mike Medved, will join us for two days. A cold front is expected and , once that passes, we will move on towards Spanish Wells.

Future plans? Ten days to 2 weeks around Spanish Wells, then on to the Berry Islands for a day or two. Hopefully, crossing to US near the first of April, to take advantage of the full moon. We will head to Ft Pierce, to retrieve objects left with friends in Vero Beach. Then on to the marina, haul and head north before the end of April. Will the snow be gone by then???

Hugs to all, Heather & Murray

Hello everyone,

The sun was shining on the azure blue water, glinting off of the bright golden fish and making him appear to be a beautiful turquoise colour. Fighting against the thin, nylon tether pulling him towards the boat, the mahi mahi swam strongly parallel to the boat. Then,… but this is the end of my story. Let me go back a few days.

We departed from Double Breasted Cay and sailed to Hog Cay, a journey of only a few miles as the crow flies but requiring a long detour around Margaret Shoal. Once securely anchored, we prepared for a dinghy excursion. Off to the big city! Or rather, the small village of Duncan Town. A long dredged channel gives access to vessels with less than 4 feet of draft and we zoomed through it on plane. The dinghies were secured at the government dock and we climbed the steep hill into town. Where was everyone? It appeared deserted. The grocery store “Maxine’s” was locked as was the Government office and the Fisherman’s Inn. Barking dogs greeted us, but no people. Finally, someone came and offered to find Miss Maxine, who then opened her store. We bought eggs, butter and a container of ice cream. Rum and raisin! Yumm. Back down the steep hill and out the channel with time for a beach walk. By the time we returned to the boat, my knee was very sore. In the morning, I could hardly walk.

A front was coming and we headed further south to take shelter from the strong northerlies expected. Now we were just 65 miles from Cuba, anchored in Southside Bay, Ragged Island. The wind stayed in the south for too long and the anchorage was quite uncomfortable for 20 hours. We made the best of things and used the power generated by the wind to watch movies or played games and ate popcorn. On the 1st of March, we hauled anchor and sailed/motored northward back to Hog Cay. The days of rest and staying off of my feet had done the job and I was able to go for a long walk across the island to a beach where we found lots of plastic debris and some sea beans buried amongst it.

Beach parties were held back to back, on Sat and Sun nights, with food, singing and dancing each night. By Sunday, there were 15 or more boats there to celebrate with Dave, from Dyad, on his birthday. Most afternoons found us in the water, chasing the elusive lobsters or crawfish.

It was time to move on. So, Monday found us sailing again, northward to Buenavista Cay. More beach walks and diving. Murray was in the water, while I waited out this brief stop at a small head. He dove two or three times and then swam towards the dinghy. A muffled “help me” wafted out of his snorkel, as he passed me his spear. I grasped it with two hands and pulled. A huge, thrashing fish was on the end. And, I dropped it! Mur dove again and passed me the spear. Tis time I was ready for the thrashing and landed the margate on the dinghy floor. He was the biggest thing Murray had ever shot approx 18-20in long. The next day, we explored more of these shallow heads close by. Between Murray and Doug, they bagged three lobster, one of which was very big. A boat with guys from Duncan Town anchored near, cleaning their catch. Murray traded some beer, a small bottle of rum and some magazines for a bunch o lobster! That is the way to fish.

Which brings me to today and the rest of the story. We sailed north again, going outside this time into deep water. Two fishing lines behind each of three vessels. Murray got the first hit and worked very hard against the bull mahi mahi. But, as he reached down to grab the line and “slam dunk” him into the cockpit, the steel leader broke, releasing the fish. And the lure. Darn! But, wasn’t he beautiful to see? Next, High Stepper gets two on at once and manages to land one. Three miles out from the cut, we got another hit that peeled line out from our reel. By the time we released the jib to slow the vessel down, the line was slack. He was gone.

No fish for us. Luckily, High Stepper was nice enough to share and mahi mahi is on the menu tonight. We had sailed 36 miles in 5 1/2 hours anchor up to anchor down. A wonderful day and an average speed of over 6.5 knots.

Tomorrow we will head north again, towards Long Island. It is time to get supplies as the frig is almost empty of everything but water bottles. The freezer, on the other hand, is almost full of fish and lobster. We WILL be back in the Jumentos another year and will plan for a longer stay. Seventeen days is just not near long enough.

Hugs, Heather & Murray

Hello all,

We have spent a lovely few days down in the southern cays of the Bahamas chain. Our trip to Flamingo Cay was un-eventful and we sailed the whole distance. Once there, we tried four or five times to get the anchor to hold. Finally, we switched to our Bruce anchor and that did the trick. The bottom was shallow sand over marl ( hard packed clay ) and we were just not getting a bite with the plow.

When secured, we putted off in the dinghy to explore. Several other boats were anchored here as well, along with a fishing boat from Long Island. Bull sharks hovered around that boat as they were cleaning fish. Not a good day for a swim! The dinghy motor developed a surging problem and starting to cut out on us, so back to the boat for us.

The waves wrapped around the island and the boat rolled from side to side all night. IT was time to move on and we did so bright and early the next day. Wind was blowing strongly from the ESE but we were able to sail the course. From waypoint to waypoint, down the chain we went. In areas open to the deep water, waves bashed us and tossed the boat around like a toy. A lookout was necessary as there was a smattering of coral heads to avoid. Mostly the water was quite deep except for one section. Here, the waves were 4 feet and we only had 6 feet below us. I worried about being bashed into the bottom in deeper waves.

Don Wilson, on Next Exit from our home port of Port Stanley, was in touch and recommended we head to Double Breasted Cay for protection from the strong southerly winds. We took his advice and anchored here shortly after 2:30 – we had sailed 41 miles in six hours, into waves. Not bad.

Murray resolved the outboard problem – it was a worn out hose – and, after a lovely dinner, we retired early. The daylight found us planning a beach walk, looking for beans. This is the place to find lots or so we have been told. But, we are many months after others who also search. The walk was successful, with beans, fishing floats etc filling our bags.

Yesterday, during a dive expedition, we managed to pierce our dinghy with another’s spear. Yikes! Limping back to the anchorage, we went to shore, beached her, repaired the hole, cut each other’s hair while the glue dried and got fried by the hot sun. The patch seems to be holding and the new do’s look good.

Last evening a beach party was held, with much food, a bonfire and Dave from Dyad strumming his guitar while the rest of us tried to sing and come up with more than the chorus lines to vaguely remembered songs. Great fun!

Today, Murray is off diving with friends. Maybe some lobster for the pot. It isn’t safe to shoot fish here as the blood and thrashing about attracts the sharks. So far, we haven’t seen any and I would like to keep it that way.

The radio is very quiet, with none of the chatter heard further north. Anchorages are seldom crowded, unless two or three boats is a crowd. This is lovely and we will be back next year.

How long will we stay down here? It depends on weather and supplies (running out of, that is). Not much is available down here and our stash is limited. But, I expect 10 days or so to pass quickly.

Hope all is well with everyone. Stay warm and March is just around the corner. Hugs to all,

Heather & Murray

Hello everyone

We finally broke loose of the tether holding us to Staniel Cay area. I cooked a bean stew for all of our land-based friends in Little Bay, near Black Point and we had a lovely evening on the deck of O’Brien’s Landing, a house on the beach overlooking our anchorage. The next day, we sailed north just a mile or so, to Black Point and did the HUGE bag of laundry that had been building for three weeks. Shortly after lunch, we hauled anchor and sailed south to Little Galliot Cay.

Nearby is a sandbar that extends approx a mile and is sometimes a source of lovely shells. Bouncing and banging on the waves, we bashed our way to windward. And found…..nothing. Just before we gave up, a boat approached with chairs, umbrellas etc etc. It was the crew from Mosha Cay, setting up for lunch for 25 guests. I imagine the guests would love it, with the shallow, aqua coloured water on all sides and a curving, private beach.

The anchorage at Galliot is bumpy and rolly at times and this was one of those times. But,we stayed three nights. Today, we hauled anchor and headed…. west! We are going to the Jumento Cays but down the back of Great Exuma Island. Tonight we will anchor near Cokely Cay and tomorrow we will be in Flamingo Cay, Jumentos. The weather is supposed to be quite settled for the next week or so and, hopefully, we will have time to explore this remote area this time.

There will not be any phones or food supplies available here. There is only one village, Duncan Town on Ragged Island and it is almost at the south tip of this island chain. The Jumentos are also called the Ragged Islands, if you are looking for them on a chart. Very remote, barren, small islands almost all the way to Cuba. In fact, some cruisers use these islands as their route to Cuba.

We will keep in touch. Hugs to all,

Heather & Murray

PS after an hour and a half, we were out of sight of land, as the islands are so very low. At 10 am, we turned SE and at that point, were only 8 miles from the deep water, the Tongue of the Ocean. The shallowest water we have seen so far was 10 feet. Soon, we shall see Great Exuma Island, but from a different perspective.

Hello to all from the sunny Bahamas,

The last message said there wasn’t any excitement. Well, that changed quickly.

Shortly after I wrote, we went to Staniel in the late afternoon to try once more to call my mom. A friend noticed that the nurse sharks and rays, normally near the docks at the Yacht Club, were all huddled in a corner. Then she spotted a quick-moving large form. It was a hammerhead shark about 8 to 10 feet long. The locals got extremely excited and eventually chased it down, shot it with a bang stick ( a pole that fires a shotgun shell ), tied a rope around its tail and dragged it ashore to be butchered. It was a scary shark to see, with its strange shaped head and fast acceleration.

The next event was the Super Bowl party at Club Thunderball. That was lots of fun and we even had a bet on the game. Not sure exactly how the system worked but, needless to say, we didn’t win. It was the only time we have been “out after dark” since we arrived in the islands. It is just not the safest thing to be motoring around in a dinghy at night. In fact, two boats of Bahamians had collided just a night or two before. Everyone was rescued but many were flown to Nassau for medical treatment.

Last Monday, we sailed north to Norman’s Cay to meet Al and Ann on Calypso Poet. They had brought us a new serial port to USB adapter to resolve, hopefully, my computer problems. Other friends, Harold and Angie on the trawler Halagain, from Parry Sound, also headed to Norman’s the same day. The three boats joined together to dive daily and our larder got steadily fuller. Murray hooked a mutton snapper one day and then shot a 10 lb margate the next. Angie shot a large yellow-fin grouper and, through a community effort, we managed to haul him aboard. Harold cleaned the grouper and shared it with all of the boats as it took a group effort to get that big fish. Many lobster were shot, cleaned, cooked and buttered. Some were even frozen to share with friends up north. One was a slipper or Spanish lobster that looks like a prehistoric bug. He was just walking along the bottom when Murray spotted him, dove down and picked him up. Not a happy lobster but sooo sweet to eat.

The computer problems seem to be resolved. The external antenna enabled us to get a wireless connection in Norman’s and we had a chance to make a Skype call to Jeremy and Cynthia, with video. It was so nice to see the kids and see how much they are growing and changing while we are gone. We tried to make a few phone calls but the connection was not great, with extreme delays. Thanks for putting up with the try – Linda & Kuyler& Don & Lena! Maybe someplace later, with a stronger wireless signal, we will try again.

Now, on Sat, we are on the way southward. Motoring this time. Another cold front is coming in tomorrow and we will have several days of strong winds, over 25 knots with gust to 35. It will charge our batteries and we will have time to play games and watch movies. Many friends are gathered in Staniel, awaiting our arrival. Cocktail parties await. Our larder is very bare, with no fresh veggies left. The supply ship was into Staniel a few days ago and the stores may be cleaned out by now as well. We will get whatever we can or make do with canned stuff. There is little danger of starving aboard this ship!

Hopefully all is well up north and the snow hasn’t gotten too deep. Much love to everyone and write when you can. We love to get your messages aboard.

Hugs, Murray & Heather

Hello all,

Here we sit with another cold front whistling through the rigging. George and Barb lucked out for their brief visit, having good weather the whole time. They flew into Staniel Cay on Monday, the 14th, and departed on the 19th with direct flights to and from Ft Lauderdale. We managed to move around some, visit other anchorages, meet cruisers at a beach party and get a visit to the Sandcastle. We snorkeled, shelled, walked through towns and enjoyed some of the local fish. All in all, a good time.

And, it has been quiet otherwise with not much excitement. That is a good thing as excitement usually spells a disaster to recover from. Friends sailing a catamaran on the Tongue of the Ocean while making passage from Miami to Nassau, lost their mast, rigging and sails. Luckily no one was hurt when a shroud broke, the mast broke loose from the deck and plunged into the deep. They have opted to continue their cruise while sails and new mast are built. This morning we awoke to find them anchored nearby. The moral of the story – examine your rigging yearly to find crevice corrosion early and replace suspect fittings.

Another cold front is expected in a couple more days – our third in the last week. They are not too rambunctious fronts but do make us think about finding a safe, comfortable spot for the bumpy nights. Barb can testify to the broken sleep achieved in a bumpy anchorage.

When we can, we get into the water and Murray is becoming a real “dead-eye” shot with his spear. A few more lobster await in our freezer. Beach walks also take up most afternoons as we search for those shells or beans missed by the previous walkers.

The cooler weather encourages me to do some baking and yummy biscuits graced our plates this morning. When it is very warm, I don’t feel like turning the oven on and heating the boat even more. Then we make do with store-bought bread, tortillas or crackers with our meals.

Our computer problems continue, with the serial to USB adapter causing the most trouble. Sometimes it takes me a half hour to get the computer to find the GPS connection to the computer through this adapter. I cleaned up the hard drive, removed a bunch of programs and created more space. Then defragged the hard drive. This has helped some but has not resolved the problem. Another friend is sailing over from Florida soon and bringing another adapter with him. Hopefully, this will resolve the problem.

So, that is it, life aboard. Pretty boring , huh? Sometimes……..

Hugs to all, Murray & Heather

Hello all,

Bright and early on Dec 31st, we motored out of Nassau harbour, heading for the cays of the Exumas. We had given up waiting for the wind to switch around so that we could sail the course. Crossing the Yellow Banks was no real problem as we had a favourable tide to give us those additional feet needed. Murray only had stand at the mast to keep watch, looking for shallow coral heads, for approx an hour.

Norman’s Cay was our destination and we dropped the hook off of “One Palm Island” before 3 pm. Lots of time to break out the cocktails for our quiet New Years Eve. In the morning, we headed out for our first snorkel of the season. Murray scouted an area, dove once and shot a lobster right between the eyes. The two of us checked out a few more coral heads and saw some very pretty fish but nothing edible. After a walk on one of my favourite deserted beaches, it was time to rinse off, clean the lobster and think about dinner.

A cold front came through the next day and the wind howled in the rigging. We snuggled below, read books, played computer games and watched movies. Because of the wind strength, we had loads of power from the wind generator.

Jan 4th found the wind still quite strong but switching more southerly tomorrow. If we wanted to sail south, this was it. We hauled anchor and headed for Big Major Spot, near Staniel Cay. The wind was still 25-30 knots and the short choppy waves washed over our boat frequently. I took refuge under the dodger and it broke MOST of the waves. But, not all. Eventually, we had to close the companionway as sea water was sloshing down the stairs. It was a fast trip to Staniel, taking us 5.5 hrs in total for the 43 nautical miles.

The freight boat arrived the next morning and we visited Isles General Store and stocked up with fresh vegetables and fruit. A trip to town isn’t complete without a Klick ( Bahamian beer )at the Staniel Cay Yacht Club. They have free wifi there, so I caught up on my banking etc.

The 8th was a lovely day for a sail, so we hauled anchor and headed south to Little Bay, Great Guana Cay. Friends there own a castle which they built and called appropriately Sandcastle. They invited us to a dinner party they were hosting and we got to meet up with old friends and make some new ones. Another lovely morning dawned and we went beachcombing on two different beaches. Not too many shells found but many sea beans, plastic fishing floats and small line floats. All in all, another good day.

The weather continues to be windy with another cold front maybe headed our way next week. Brrr, we need the water to warm up again as it has dropped 4-6 degrees in the last while. I know, we are whimpy as it is still 72F or 24C. Lots warmer than Georgian Bay on a good day! Tomorrow we will head around the corner to Black Point to do laundry at the prettiest laundry around. And the only coin laundry between Nassua and George Town. Then, maybe back to Staniel as they just announced a barbeque on the beach in town later in the afternoon. It is a busy social calendar!

That is all of the news from here. Not much exciting happening and that is probably a good thing. Hugs to all and stay warm,

Heather & Murray

Hello all,

We have arrived in the Bahamas once more, departing West Palm Beach, Fl on the 26th at 0700 and arriving here on the 27th at 1330. It was a distance of 200 nm and a motorboat ride the whole way. The boat performed well and all systems functioned as expected.

A different route was taken this year. First we headed south for 2 hours until we were not making much headway against the opposing Gulf Stream. Then we angled across the stream on a course of 125M. Once out of the stream and on the Bahamian side, we turned more south again, heading towards Great Isaac light ( which wasn’t on!! ) and an entrance onto the banks. The egg shaped moon rose shortly after we worked our way around the island and between the neighbouring reefs. It was easier than it sounds, due to radar and computer charts. The balance of the night while crossing the shallow banks, we took turns napping while the other stood watch ( reading a book in the cockpit using a headlamp with a red lens to maintain our night vision ).

Arriving at Northwest Channel light ( which was working !) in the pre-dawn hours, we transitted this reefy area and back into the deep waters of NorthWest Providence Channel. Then it was another 50 miles on to Nassau.

The dockmaster at Nassau Harbour Club, Peter, assisted us ably into the slip as the current and wind both were pushing us ahead. Murray did his usual awesome job of putting the boat right where it should be. Customs and Immigration soon followed and we were then allowed to go ashore.

After buying some more liquor for the locker ( take note George & Barb! )and a few other supplies, checking the internet at a nearby Starbucks and a brief walkabout, we departed the marina by eleven today, 28th. Using the external wireless antenna we have been able to access free wireless from aboard the boat. Cool!

So, here we will sit until the wind dies slightly or changes direction. Yes, it is coming from the direction that we want to go. As per usual. Time to chill, drink some rum and catch up on our sleep.

Hugs, Heather & Murray

Well, I really hate to complain about this, but here we are in West Palm Beach. The weather is gorgeous, with hot sunny days and little wind. The problem is much further out to sea where there is a gale whipping the waves ever higher. Those waves are generating a very nasty swell that is keeping us here. They will subside shortly and the good weather is supposed to continue. Thus, plans are to cross over on Wednesday, Boxing Day, perhaps continuing on directly to Nassau.

I have been holding off on putting up the tree as the crossing is usually rough. But, today our tiny tree graces the middle of our table. Clear LED Christmas lights are strung beneath the bimini and are likely to remain there for the balance of this winter. Using little power, they give a nice ambient glow to the cockpit.

There will be presents under the tree this year as I had a chance to shop for some small things for us both. Surprises for Murray.

For Christmas Day, we are making plans to share an early dinner with friends. The menu : turkey breast that was tucked into the freezer, some garlic mashed potatoes, perhaps a green bean casserole and something gooey for dessert. All washed down with copious amounts of wine. Sounds exactly like your plans, right?

Except we will also be going to bed very early so that we get lots of sleep in preparation for a 200+ mile journey the next couple of days, sleeping in the two hour off-watch periods.

Wherever you are and whoever you share this day with, we wish you all a Very Merry Christmas!! Good Health and Joy for the coming year.

All the best, Heather & Murray

Our last replacement part has arrived. Murray is deep in the cockpit locker installing the new inverter. The food lockers are stuffed so full that I hesitate to open the doors. All of the laundry has been done and clean sheets await us tonight. Our final bill for the last six nights of mooring fees has been paid. I think we are ready to attempt to pull free.

The cruisers call this place ( Vero Beach ) Velcro Beach for good reason. There are many conveniences that keep you here. The free bus come through the marina once an hour and delivers you, by transferring to other routes, to various spots around town – grocery stores, WalMart, a shopping mall etc etc. Vero is a good sized town so most repairs can be found here. The marina has few dock space but approx 60 moorings on which they put up to 3 boats. Almost every time, we manage to raft with friends. And, if they weren’t when we arrived, by the time we leave, they are good friends.

For us, the days traveling to here seem to bring out all of those niggling things that will break down soon. So, for us, we stop here to repair the boat and get it in tip-top shape before heading to the islands.

Speaking of that, there is a weather window opening up later this week. So, we plan to leave here today and travel to Ft Pierce. That is only 10-12 miles away. But, we will anchor there and fill our diesel tanks at a close-by, budget-priced fuel dock. In the am early, we will head off-shore to West Palm – a distance of 45 miles. Then we will anchor near Peanut Island and await the correct timing and weather to cross over to the islands. Maybe before Christmas.

If so, we will be in the Berry Islands and quite remote, with no phone or wireless access. Don’t worry about us and we will write using the ham e-mail to stay in touch. Just know that we love you all and wish you only the best.

Hugs, Murray & Heather