That date means two different things to us. First, we get to open another envelope of money. We budget $500 per month for the duration of our stay in the islands and sort it into envelopes to keep us on track. Most of the time, we don’t spend the month’s allotment as there isn’t much to spend it on. But, “payday” is always a good day.

Secondly, grouper season is now open. For the months of Dec, Jan & Feb, Nassau grouper are off-limits. For the last few months we have seen many Nassau grouper. They seem to know that they are safe as well, tantalizing us with perfect positions for a good shot. They don’t hide but just sit there watching us, while we watch them. Murray jokes that he has put a “tag” on several to reserve them for W4 ( Windswept IV ). Now that it is legal to take them, we won’t find one around. But we will have fun trying.

Yesterday, Murray dove with a group of friends and came back with the most lobsters. He got two lovely ones and we ate them for dinner last night. The lobster found here is different from the ones in New England. These are the spiny lobsters and have no claws. They do have very long antenna which often stick out of their hidey-holes. That is how we find them. And they deserve the name “spiny” as the antenna and the sides of the lobster are covered with picky spines. Some people have said that we should catch them with a mop. You thrust the mop into the hole and the lobster gets tangled up in it. It would work except… have you ever tried to dive with a mop? It is very difficult. Mur tried it. The spear works better.

We have traveled northward somewhat and are anchored in Big Major Spot, near Staniel Cay. There was nothing left of our veggies, even the last onion was in use. And, I was out of reading material. Horrors! So, yesterday we took the dinghy to town, visited the library for new books and stocked up on lots of veggies at Isles General Store. We even splurged for a small container of ice cream and ate it there under the gazebo before it melted. It was a race to the bottom, with two spoons dipping. Rum and raisin, mmm.

Plans for the future? Well, we want to be back in the US by the end of this month or so. I have a big job ahead of me, making new canvas for the boat. This spring, I hope to get the bimini done and then work on the dodger in the fall. I have the list of all the zippers, thread, snaps, etc etc that I will need for the project and will make the order in time for it to be shipped to our marina ahead of our arrival.

Other than that? Well, enjoy the balance of our time here. Dive, walk, visit, etc. It is a tough life.

Hopefully, all is well with you and yours. Stay warm and the spring should be along soon.

Hugs, Heather & Murray

After 10 days, we have left George Town. Not soon enough for Murray.

For those who haven’t seen it, Elizabeth Harbour is about 5 miles long and the mainland is protected by a series of barrier islands about a mile across from the main island. With prevailing easterly winds, most vessels anchor along the largest of the barrier islands, Stocking Island. These anchorages have been named ie Sand Dollar Beach, Hamburger Beach ( there is a hamburger stand ) or Volleyball Beach. But, when the wind blows from the northwest or southeast, it can get very bouncy. And, when the wind blows, boats drag. They are anchored so close together that they crash into each other’s anchor lines or even boats.

The town of George Town is accessed under a small bridge into an inland lake, Lake Victoria. Inside there is a dinghy dock and free reverse-osmosis ( a process where salt is taken out of salt water to make fresh ) water. At the head of the dock, is Exuma Market, the local grocery. They also provide garbage bins for the cruisers. In town, there are banks, hardware stores, laundries, a straw market and many restaurants.

On Stocking Island are walking trails and many beaches. Chat & Chill ( a bar/burger joint ) is on Volleyball Beach. Here there are many courts for the game the beach is named for. Also, basket weaving, bridge and domino games, painting classes etc etc take place daily. Picnic tables and card tables have been built to accommodate all of the activities. This is winter camp for adults.

Saturday, we went on a “rock walk” with a marine biologist. He told us about stromolites, which are found living only in the Exumas and Australia. They are bacterial mats that exude a sticky substance. This then gets coated with sand and hardens into rock. Sort of rock – if you press on the “rock”, it is soft. These stromolites are billions of years old, 3.5 billion actually. The ones found in the Bahamas are only about 3 thousand years old. Stromolites give off oxygen and are thought to have contributed to forming an atmosphere where humans could live. It was very interesting and we walked for several miles. Sure was glad that the knee worked!

Every morning, the cruisers net starts at 0800, with weather and announcements. After that, it is a feeding frenzy as people make plans for the day. In fact the radio is never quiet. If you use a channel reserved for business, someone is very quick to point it out. There are activities on the beaches almost every day – cocktail parties, music, etc.

Hoping to get further south, we stuck it out. But, there were too many people for us. With the weather report not favourable for the next week, unless we wanted to motor 35+ miles, we headed back north yesterday. We traveled a distance of 10 miles and are anchored alone, with a couple of boats in sight. Nice. As the wind died, we barbequed some chicken and had a lovely dinner in the cockpit. The wind is expected to blow from the north for the next while, so we may be here for a week. The freezer is full of food but we will run out of fresh things. No worries as we have lots of cans.

So, that is what is happening here. Hope all is well up north. Write when you have time.

Hugs, Heather & Murray

No, I don’t mean “dinghy adrift!” which we have heard three times this winter. Those lucky cruisers all recovered their dinghys. Two traveled from Staniel Cay to Andros Island, a distance of approximately 30 miles, and one was found out on Exuma Sound. Murray wanted to institute an afternoon class of basic knots when we heard that the third one had escaped.

No, this dinghy drift is a good experience. First let me set the stage. We were anchored at Children’s Bay Cay, south of Lee Stocking Island. It had been a lovely few days of sun and fun in the water. But, Saturday was memorable, as it was F.A.C. or Flat Ass Calm.

In the morning, Murray & Doug, from High Stepper, went diving while Connie and I worked on our basket weaving. In the early afternoon, we took the dinghys to Barreterre, a nearby village. There we stretched our legs and investigated the local populace. The no-seeums chased us off after an hour and we returned to the dinghys. Speeding along on the gin-clear water gave us the illusion of flying above the surface.

I suggested a get-together that night for a dinghy drift. We stopped by each boat ( there were 9 in the anchorage ) to tender the invitation. At 4:30 dinghys started to gather and lash together, up-current. When most had arrived, we cast off our anchor and drifted with the current. Snacks and stories were passed around the group. Between the boats, you could get glimpses of the bottom, seeing soft corals waving and fish dart by. The night was topped off by a green flash as the sun set. What a glorious day!

Yesterday, we motored the final 15 miles to George Town, to replenish supplies of fresh foods and fuel. High Stepper was lucky once again and landed a mahi mahi. We were lucky also as they shared it with us at dinner that night.

Today, up early to gather weather info, we headed to town before 8 am. I was the first person at the laundry and got things going quickly. Murray investigated the grocery to see if a ship had been in to deliver fresh things. Most of the items on my list were found. Then, Doug came by as we were checking out. ” There is a huge barge of sand, with a tug attached, very close to your boat!”. Back to the dinghy, through the narrow cut under the bridge, into the rough waters of Elizabeth Harbour. Man, that barge looks close to our boat from here. Arriving back, we unloaded quickly and moved the boat ahead, out of his way.

Once we were re-anchored, I called the tug. I apologized if we were blocking his passage, but the computer charts showed that we were outside of the designated channel. He said that we were correct but there was more water outside of the channel! As he was aground most of the time, he was looking for the deepest water he could find.

Now that our hearts have settled down once again, we will finish our chores in town. Then find someplace calmer to anchor for a few days, while the winds blow. After that, we will see. Maybe south to Long Island or east to Conception. All written in Jello.

Stay warm and well. Hugs to you all. Heath & Murray

That is our current location, anchored off of the private island of Rudder Cay. The adjacent island of Musha Cay uses this island for a garbage dump and an airport. The island is big enough for an airstrip, unlike Musha Cay. Exactly why they deposit the garbage here, we do not know. But, it stinks! The cruisers are not allowed to step foot on the beaches, even though the Bahamas laws state that anyone can land on a beach up to the high water line plus one cart width. But, we don’t push it. If the island is marked “private”, we stay off.

Shortly after our last note, friends on High Stepper landed a 54 inch Wahoo. That is almost as long as I am tall. Murray helped clean the fish and they gifted us with several pieces. The story is that the name of that fish came because the flesh was so tasty, when one was caught everyone would cheer ” wahoo”! Certainly we have enjoyed the pieces we have eaten already.

Our Engles freezer never seems to get any emptier. As I use up the meat within, Murray re-fills it with fish. It is almost as full as when we left Florida.

Yesterday the winds blew up to 30+ knots overnight. Today it has calmed down somewhat but is still quite windy. I took advantage of the cooler weather to bake 2 loaves of bread and then an apple cake out of the dregs of the apples in the larder. The cabbage looked wilted yesterday, so I read through all of my books and found a recipe for Lazy Cabbage Roll Casserole. But, it needed to be bake for 1.5 hours. Too much propane usage. Back to the books and I decided to try it in the pressure cooker. Four minutes under pressure and the casserole came out beautifully. Leftovers for dinner tonight along with fresh bread.

When the wind dies off some, we will meander further south, eventually to George Town, Exuma for re-stocking of fresh things. No immediate plans, except for a movie this afternoon aboard High Stepper. Maybe they would like some apple cake?

Hugs to all, Heather & Murray

Hello all,

We “drove” to town yesterday for supplies. This means that we jumped into the dinghy and motored approx a mile ( 2 km ) to the village. The announcement had gone out on the weather net that the mailboat had “reached” or arrived at the dock and thus there would be fresh supplies in the stores.

There are three grocery stores on Staniel Cay – the Pink Store, the Blue Store and Isles General Store. We tend to visit Isles General first and get most of our list there. Visits to the other stores may complete our shopping list or maybe not. These stores are not what you encounter in Canada. They are very small, closer to the size of a small variety store. They have a few shelves, frigs and freezers plus overflow placed on the floor. All of the meat is kept frozen. Cheeses, eggs, milk and some vegetables are kept in the frig.

The customers help to unload the supplies from the truck and carry them into the store. It makes them available faster.

Sometimes there is fresh bread and sometimes not. Yesterday was a not. So, one of my jobs soon will be to bake us some bread. I made English Muffins the other morning while Murray was helping another cruiser with a project on their boat.

So, back to the shopping. I got most of the things on my list – 1 dozen eggs, 3 tomatoes, 1 green pepper ( all that seemed somewhat fresh ), a bunch of bananas, a head of cabbage, 3 grapefruit and 2 potatoes. The total cost was $18.50 US. I think the price of fruits and vegetables are fairly reasonable. It is just snack stuff or prepared items that are very expensive. The bread that I couldn’t get would have cost $5 a loaf. A box of crackers is $6. And I don’t even look at the price of cookies or muffins. Those I make myself, if we want them.

Luckily, we carry all the snack stuff that we think we will need for the winter months. Can you imagine? Trying to figure out how many boxes of crackers, nacho chips, salsa, nuts, etc that you may want to eat or use for entertaining? Basically, we carry as much as we can. When we are out, that is it.

Tonight, there will be a beach party. Now, what to take……?

Hopefully, all is well up there and the next time you go grocery shopping, look around and appreciate the choices that you have.

Hugs from, Murray & Heather

Hello everyone,

We safely arrived at our favourite spot in the islands on Jan 6th. Now we are anchored here, off of the Pig Beach, with about 40 boats anchored nearby and the wind howling in the rigging. The pigs are new ones but they still learn to swim out to the dinghys which bring table scraps in for them to eat. The wind has been 20+ knots for the last three days and is scheduled to continue for another three days. Oh well, we have lots of power from the wind generator.

On Jan 2nd, we hauled anchor and motorsailed to Nassau, where we stayed only one night. Arriving mid-afternoon, we ran around and did the errands necessary to depart in the morning. Another case of rum and some veggies and we were good to go. In the morning, we were able to sail all of the way to Norman’s Cay, in choppy seas on the shallow banks. Fishing lines were deployed on all of these trips, with nothing to show for it. At Norman’s, we anchored off of the west side and had a comfortable night. But, the next couple of days, Heather suffered from a stomach flu bug of some sort and managed to pass it on to Murray, as well. We did travel for short hops in the afternoons but basically laid low and took it easy.

Between stomach flu and chest colds, this winter so far has been the worst in a while for sickness. Murray is still coughing at times from his bronchitis.

Now we are doing the cocktail party rounds, beach parties and even a pig roast scheduled. Snorkel trips take place whenever the weather allows. Oh, the water temperature is 78 degrees F or about 25C! Not too hard to take. When we need a change, we head to the village for fresh supplies or a burger at the Yacht Club. Or to use the wireless there as well.

And this is the year of the green flash! We have seen 5 already! Using the binoculars makes them even more visible than ever. But even with the naked eye, there have been some beautiful, very GREEN, flashes. A friend told us of the Christmas star and we have even seen that. It was in the southeast sky, about 30 degrees above the horizon and very bright ( with us at position 24 degrees Latitude ). With the naked eye, it appears to twinkle a lot. With binos, it gives off red and green flashes but does not move as a plane would. According to the friend, it spins so very quickly that it emits these colour flashes. It was beautiful to see.

Otherwise, there is not much excitement here. A quiet life aboard, reading books and watching movies until the wind dies down somewhat. Hopefully, life is treating you well up north and you are able to keep warm and healthy.

Hugs to all, Murray & Heather

On Dec 22nd, we departed Peck Lake, as early as possible. As it was Friday and a holiday weekend, we expected the waterways to get busy in the afternoon. There are seven opening bridges between Peck Lake and our anchorage near the entrance to West Palm Beach. And each bridge is on a different schedule of openings. The challenge is to try to get between them with the correct timing, so as you don’t have to wait a half hour for the next opening. And, of course, the current is against us.

Finally, we dropped anchor south of Peanut Island and began to make preparations for the crossing. I cooked some hard boiled eggs and made up some salmon for sandwiches. Murray checked the engine and alternator belt alignment.

Saturday dawned with grey skies and the wind in the wrong direction. Was the weather report wrong? We were in a quandary and the radio calls between boats indicated that we were not the only ones. Finally a rain squall went trough and the winds changed to the predicted direction. Quickly we pulled the dinghy onto the deck and headed out the inlet.

With the outgoing tide against the on-shore wind, the inlet was ugly. Square waves bashed us for about a mile and then settled down somewhat. The boat tucked into a close-haul and we were trucking. The boat was heeled over ( leaned over ) 20 to 25 to 30 degrees and my “house” down belowdecks wasn’t faring to well. Once the bookcase threw its extra cards and books on the floor and the throw cushions from the starboard settee joined them, things settled down somewhat. But, I don’t move around much in those conditions.

With the wind blowing from the southeast, we weren’t able to head to the Berry Islands, so changed plans our destination to Lucaya, Grand Bahamas. We dodged a few ships but the crossing was quite quiet. As we were under full sail, with no engine runing, we had to hand steer the whole way. You see, the autopilot takes too much power. The wind continued and we arrived at the entrance to Lucaya at 0400. Low tide. There is not a lot of water in their entrance but a vessel ahead reassured us that we would find enough water. When we turned on the engine, it was not pumping cooling water. Shut down quick! Now, we sail in. Between the markers, around the corners, drift past the marina and drop anchor under sail. Whew! A job for the morning to check out the cooling system.

In the morning, the engine pumped water fine (wouldn’t you know!) and we motored to our slip. Customs and immigration were handled quickly and then it is time for brunch. The afternoon was spent dozing by the pool.

Christmas Day was hot and muggy. A celebration dinner was laid out on the pool deck with turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes, plus Bahamian favourites like peas and rice , macaroni and cheese. Rum cake was served for dessert. Friends shared our table and enjoyed the spread.

Boxing Day we awoke to rain that varied from a deluge to a patter. When the skies cleared, we left the marina ( $64/ day ) and anchored nearby. Our alarm went off at 0600 on the 27th. We hauled anchor and sailed ( again! ) all the way to Great Stirrup Cay, at the top of the Berry Island chain. It was a lumpy anchorage and we left again early the next morning to motorsail 20 miles south to Hoffman Cay. This is a good spot to unwind.

The wind is predicted to blow hard for the next few days, so we will remain here. Murray is in his element, catching fish one after the other from the cockpit. I enjoy the beach walks and shelling nearby. We had our first dive of the season yesterday and bagged a lobster and a conch. The new knee seems to work just fine with fins and climbing into the dinghy.

Last night, we organized the first beach cocktail party of our winter and all of the boats anchored nearby attended. Now, what to do for New Year’s Eve….?

Hopefully your holiday season has been full of fun with family and friends nearby. Take care of each other and best wishes for 2007.

Hugs, Murray & Heather

Yes, it is almost here. Today is Dec 21st and our tree is decorated and set up in the centre of our table. All of the lockers are stuffed full, ready to cross over to the islands. The laundry is done and everything is ready, I think.

Except for the weather. Today it is blowing hard and our wind generator and solar panels are filling up the batteries. Right now we are anchored at Peck Lake, which is just a wide spot to the side of the ICW. But, there is access to the beach and we may go for a walk later. Friends, George & Nancy Marvin from Trumpeter, live just a mile down the ICW and invited us over yesterday. We showered, did laundry and borrowed the car to pick up the last minute fresh stuff. Then they plied us with steak and wine and even ice cream! It is wonderful to have good friends.

Tomorrow we will move on down the ICW to West Palm Beach and anchor near Peanut Island to be ready if this window materializes. Saturday and Sunday’s forecasts seem to show that we can get across the Gulf Stream without too much pain.

Will we have turkey and presents? Well, there is a turkey breast in the new freezer, just waiting for the right day. And, as for presents, there are a few things stashed in the cupboards that will find their way into the stockings. Things like batteries, a headlamp, Sudoku books, flavoured coffee and small boxes of chocolate. Little treats. Our best presents are the love we have for each other and all of you, our friends and family. Without that, presents are just more stuff. And, of course,the gift of good health. Murray will be more than happy to stop coughing and I am glad that I can walk, without pain. Those are the important gifts.

Once we get to the islands, then we will have to decide if we head straight to Staniel to enter the New Year’s Regatta or, if we meander through the Berry Islands. All will depend on the weather as another cold front will be hard on our heels. We don’t get snow but get the strong north winds that cause us to take shelter.

When we are underway, we will let you all know and also of our safe arrival. Meanwhile, enjoy some eggnog for us! Sit by the cozy fireplace with the snow blowing outside and marvel at the family and friends around you.

Hugs, Heather & Murray

Well, at about 12:30 today, Dec 10th, we cast our lines off and departed the dock at Green Cove Springs. Off for another season of adventures in a small boat.

Arriving at the marina on Nov 20th, we found the boat to be in good condition after the summer, with very little evidence of mildew to be found. Murray buffed the hull again, with Aquabuff, and she shines as though she was brand new. We put on a new coat of bottom paint and did a few other jobs aboard. By Tuesday, Nov 28th, we were ready to launch.

Then, tidy up the mess down below as friends arrive on the 30th! Linda and Kuyler flew down for a week visit to help us get the boat ready. We put them to work, washing the yard dirt off of the deck, polishing the ports both outside and in and helping me stock the boat with cans and other groceries. Meanwhile, Murray was dealing with his own issues – a wind generator to install ( replacement for the old unit ), a cracked elbow on the cooling system, leaking stuffing box, etc etc. Mostly we tried to stay out of his way!

But it wasn’t all work and no play. The marina had a lovely Thanksgiving potluck on the 23rd and even us Canadians got in on the act. Paul, the yard manager, supplied a turkey and a ham and the boaters brought the rest. Yumm. With Linda and Kuyler, we managed to take one night off to visit Clark’s Fish Camp in Jacksonville. That was an experience! Delicious seafood in interesting surroundings and good friends to share it with.

When Linda and Kuyler headed back, we got really serious. I had an opportunity to purchase a used Sailrite sewing machine, on launch day. It had a few problems but we got those ironed out and it works like a charm. I made a canvas storage bag, with a full length zipper, to store Murray’s Fortress anchor. Now, we are looking at making our own dodger and bimini, in the spring.

The waterline slowly disappeared as we hauled groceries back to the boat and stowed them away. The new portable Engel freezer is jammed packed with meats and tucked in the aft cabin. The freezer in the icebox is filled with cold meats and cheeses.

Now, to remove the old batteries and install the new ones. Those are darn heavy things! We created an elevator with a milk crate and the spinnaker halyard. That job went better than we expected. The biggest hold-up was the laundry. But, after about 3 hours, it was done and folded.

Today, we got up, closed the boat tightly and set off insect bombs to kill any cockroaches that might have decided to travel with us. Then air the boat out again, stow the car away, and toss the lines.

The sun is shining brightly but the wind has a cold bite to it. We will travel as far down the river today as we can, entering the ICW tomorrow. And then, travel as fast as we can, heading south. But that is only at 6 to 7 knots! Arising at dawn and anchoring at dusk, we can expect to make about 60 to 70 miles per day, equivalent to one hour by car. Slow, huh?

Once we get south of Vero Beach, we will start looking for weather windows to cross the Gulf Stream. But, that is a few days away.

My new knee has not given me much trouble. Occasionally, it swells up some and I try to sit down more the next day. But, there is no pain or heat in the joint. All good things.

We finally found a new, tiny tree for the boat and acquired some lights today. Soon, we may get some decorations up for Christmas. I keep forgetting that it is so close.

Stay warm everyone.

Hugs to all, Heather & Murray

Hello everyone,

I got freedom! On Wednesday, the 1st of November, my meds were discontinued. My family doctor removed the PICC line ( that was easier than putting it in!!). I was free to walk about without a 5 pound pack around my waist or jump into the shower without having my arm wrapped in plastic wrap and tape. Man, did it make my life easier.

Now, we monitor the situation, watching for fever and/or pain. After a couple of weeks with no sign of either, we are going to continue on with our usual life and plans.

So, the plan is to arrive in Green Cove Springs on the 20th of this month. That will require us to depart Ontario on Thursday or Friday prior to that.

Right now, we are in Dunrobin visiting with our son and his family. Stops have been made in Woodstock and Guelph. On the return drive, we hope to visit Peterborough and maybe Oakville. Then we will be back at Steve’s place in St Thomas for a few more days.

So, that is what is happening with us. How are things will all of you? Surviving this dull, cool time of year? Hopefully, we will manage to visit or at least have phone contact. Stay in touch.

Hugs, Heather & Murray