Hello all,

Murray and Don took a taxi early Monday morning to the car rental agency to pick up the vehicle Tina had reserved for us. When the cab driver doubled over in laughter upon sight of the car, we suspected there might be an issue. Wiping tears from his eyes, he said ” Chinese cars! Many problems!” It was a brand new Geely, a small passenger car but underpowered as we discovered in the mountains. Back at the marina, we loaded up our gear and set off on another type of adventure.

As they hadn’t wanted to pay for an extra driver, Murray was the designated driver for the whole journey. The map book that we had been given was lacking the pages most pertinent to our itinerary, so we already had a disadvantage. But, our first wrong turn happened just a half hour down the road on the first round-about. Once we got straightened out and underway again, we soon found the auto-piste or highway. It was just a two lane road that wound through small towns and villages as Murray dodged horses and buggies, oxen pulling carts and bicycles galore.

Bayamo was our first destination and had been recommended by other cruisers as a great stop. Using a guide book, supplied by Lori and Randy on Solemate 3, I had selected Villa Bayamo as our domicile for the night. The road map failed us and my guide book map seemed quite lacking as we wondered the narrow streets of the city. A young man on a bicycle took pity on us and led us across the town, up and down hill, around corners to Villa Bayamo, for just a few pesos. The accommodation was actually separate flat roofed buildings, each capable of sleeping 6 persons in two separate rooms, for which we paid $32! Taking a taxi, we ventured back into the centre of town and walked the lovely parks and plazas there. Another young man, with impeccable English, chatted with us and recommended a spot for our late lunch. At the restaurant, Bodega, we enjoyed another lovely meal while Cuban minstrels serenaded us. This was our most expensive meal of the whole trip, costing $66 but that included drinks and dessert for four. Back at the hotel, it was time to cool off in the pool and just relax.

After a good breakfast ( included in the price of the room! ) we headed off once again. From Bayamo, we headed east, passing through Guantanamo about lunch time. At a recent stop for gas, I had purchased some cold beer. Once we found some roadside stands selling a type of pizza for 5 pesos each, we had our lunch. From this point, we took the road that followed the coast and had many glimpses of the churning seas. Then the mountains started and the road became very twisty. Some turns seemed to be in excess of 270 degrees! Wherever the road widened, several locals would be standing, trying to sell small items to us as we passed. I am not sure who would stop to buy as it would be quite dangerous. Finally, we arrived in Baracoa. Unable to find a casa particular that could accommodate both couples, we ended up staying a couple of streets apart. The cost? Per night, $25, breakfast $3 each and dinner $8 each. We stayed two nights,had four breakfasts and dinners and a few beer and water bottles for a total of $100. That is a fortune to the Cubans where an engineer may make 20 CUC per month and a doctor 30. I am using CUC and $ interchangeably as they are virtually identical in value in Cuba.

A day was spent sightseeing in this remote town and early the next morning we again headed out, taking the road to Moa. This road was not in good repair, we had been warned. But the ranches were they grew cocoa were along this road and it was a more direct route back to the marina. Right…. a little rough! The holes were big enough to hold two cars and the surface beyond the holes was very rough. Murray used all of his rally skills to keep the car from being destroyed by a rock or huge hole. Somehow we missed the cocoa ranch but didn’t want to turn around. Eventually, Moa came into sight and I remarked that it reminded me of Sudbury, before the superstack. Later we found out that there is a large nickel mine here and the trees and vegetation have been devastated. The land around Moa is very red, even darker than Prince Edward Island, almost a burgundy colour. By late afternoon, we were back at the marina and glad to spend the night in our own comfortable beds.

What did we learn on this journey? That the Cuban people are lovely, friendly and interested in us. That the countryside is green and lush and mountainous in parts with many farms and ranches growing fruits and vegetables with goats, cows and horses abundant. So different from the near desert of the Bahamas. That it is possible to eat cheaply in Cuba, buying from street vendors but some restaurants can be very expensive. Also most toilets are “hovers”. They don’t have toilet seats and often don’t supply toilet tissue. That the country has an interesting history and we need to do a lot more reading and investigating before our next journey.

Will we go back? Probably, although it is not cheap for foreigners in Cuba. In the two weeks, we spent $1200 Cdn, including everything – the marina for two weeks, check-in fees, food supplies, taxis and car rental, hotels etc and some small souvenirs. If we had been able to anchor, things would have been much cheaper but that isn’t an option in Vita. Well, you can anchor – for $0.30 per foot per night but it is very difficult to get ashore, with no ladders on the docks.

But, this is already too long and I will write more another day. Love and hugs to all,

Heather & Murray

PS Crossed back to Hog Cay, Jumentos yesterday March 16th.

Ricardo arrived in a taxi and, for $15 CUC, drove us to Gardalavaca, the nearest town large enough to have a bank. Gardalavaca means “watch the cows” which was named due to the many raids by pirates along these coasts. The bank only had one teller open and the locals were allowed to jump the line. So, to change our money took at least 45 minutes. For $210 Cdn, we received $191.95 CUC. When I asked for $500 CUC from my Visa card, she charged the card in US $, thus giving me a much worse exchange rate. But, as the teller never spoke, I didn’t notice that until just now as I calculated the exchange rate to report here. The next time, we will watch more closely. You must present your passport and Cuban Visa to do any banking and do not have access to your bank accounts. Thus, to save on interest rates, we pre-loaded our Visa card with a positive balance.

From the bank, we wandered, dodging rain storms, to find somewhere for lunch. In a park square, various small vendors had set up shop, selling carvings, small trinkets, leather belts and purses etc.

Once we were fed, it was time to find the “cadeca” which was an office in one of the hotels which would change CUC’s into the national pesos. The money system here can be confusing. In previous years, only tourists had CUC’s and the locals had pesos. Some stores only accepted CUC’s and some just pesos. Now, many of the locals can earn CUC’s and the jobs where they have access to that money are prized. One CUC equals 24 pesos. A doctor in Cuba may earn 30 CUC per month and a maid in a hotel may only earn $5 CUC.

The next day we were up for another adventure and walked several km to the main road. Here we turned toward Holguin and waited at the bus stop. After about 30 minutes, a decrepit bus stopped and, along with some locals, we climbed aboard. A ride was only 1 pesos per person or about 20 cents for all of us.

At Santa Lucia, we climbed out and started to walk. Not far along, we were accosted by a man with a horse and carriage. For 1 peso per person, he agreed to take us to the market. At least that is what we understood. Down paved streets and muddy lanes, the horse led us on, driven by the man who spoke no English and with me, and my broken Spanish, trying to get him to understand. Eventually we arrived at the market square. Here were lots of people and very loud salsa music blaring over huge speakers. Don said ” great, now we will not only be unable to understand what they say but also be unable hear what they say!”. From vendors, we purchased some onions and tomatoes ( about 8 lbs for 5 pesos or 20 cents). Beer was available but you needed to supply your own bottle.

Back into the horse-drawn cart, we went and the driver took us to a local restaurant. For 20 CUC, the four of us ate, the women a chicken dinner while the men had fish. It was accompanied by fried plantain, tomato slices and brown rice. The price also included the 7 beers we drank.

With heavy bags and full tummies, it was time for a cab back to the marina. Tomorrow is Sunday and we plan to do some work around the boat ie repair the jib halyard, put the watermaker to sleep while we are here and write all of these e-mails.

The weather here has been hot and not very windy in the marina. This is a disadvantage as the marina is situated in mangroves and, when the wind dies, the no-see-ums come out. When they are done eating you then the mosquitoes attack. So, we pray for lots of wind to keep both of them at bay.

Tomorrow, Monday, we will rent a car and do some traveling in the interior for several days. We paln to stay at cassa particulares which are a type of bed-and-breakfast. The prices are reasonable and often include dinner. Reports to follow upon our return to the marina.

Hugs and adios,
Heather & Murray

Tina, the marina manager greeted us with flowers and welcomed us ( in excellent English ) to her country. Then the officials arrived.

Three men were first with forms to fill out. One was the veterinarian who examines the meat, flour and rice etc. He is looking for meats from countries with mad cow disease and bugs in the flour or rice. Another official was the Harbourmaster who, with his minimal English and my dictionary, assisted the others in completing the forms. Once those forms were done, the drug dogs arrived. Two different ones and they both had trouble with our steep stairs.. We must have looked like bad “hombres”. Two customs men followed and searched the the vessel, looking in cupboards, bilges and lockers. Once this process was completed, Murray needed to go to the custom’s office to see yet another official and fill out forms there listing GPS’s, VHF’s, TV, cameras, radar and computers etc. Our passports were taken away by the Immigration official and returned with a separate page inserted which was our Cuban Visa. They do not put any stamps inside your passport so, once you have departed Cuba, the loose page can be removed and there then is no indication that you have visited this country.

The costs for this process:

• Custom Inspection 20 CUC ( Cuban convertible peso approx $1 Cdn )
• Doctor 25 CUC ( not always collected as the Doctor himself cannot handle the money )
• Veterinarian 5 CUC
• Immigration Visa 15 CUC per person
• Cruising Permit 15 CUC
• Entry Stamp 10 CUC
• Departure Stamp 10 CUC

The marina charges 0.60 CUC per foot on the dock with power and water but also 0.30 CUC per foot to anchor in the bay. So far, we have stayed on the dock. The water is questionable in its delivery and its purity. We have gotten mixed reports but some of the cruisers do drink it. Mostly, we are using it for washing ourselves and the boat.

Finally after a couple of drinks and a light dinner, we crashed for the night. By morning, my bruises were blooming. I forgot to mention being dumped off of the cockpit seat ( while napping on a cushion ) by a large wave. On the way down, I managed to rip the cockpit table off of the binnacle. Oops, another job for Murray’s list.

In the morning, after a long visit with Tina, talking about the marina and life in general, it was time to visit a bank, change some money and begin our adventures ashore.

More to follow,
Heather & Murray

Hello everyone

On March the 2nd, a beach party was held on Hog Cay to celebrate Dave’s ( on m/v Dyad ) birthday. After roasted hot dogs ( I made buns! ) side dishes supplied by the cruisers and Cathy’s famous double chocolate cherry dump cake, fireworks blasted into the night sky. By the light of the bonfire and Dave’s L.E.D. lit cap, Dave played guitar as we all tried to sing along.

All too soon, Murray was tapping me on the shoulder to say ” It’s time to go.” Go back to the boat, haul the engine and then haul the dinghy and stow it on the foredeck. Then time for a couple of hours of shut-eye before the alarm wakes us once again for our planned midnight departure. A quick radio call confirmed that Next Exit, with Don and Ann aboard, were also up and ready to head out. The anchor broke loose from the sands of Hog Cay just as the hour changed to midnight.

The distance from Hog Cay to Puerto de Vita, Cuba is 73 nm and we arrived at Vita by 1100 March 3rd. The wind was on our beam and the waves built behind us until we cleared Cayo Santa Domingo and then, with only 30 miles to go, the seas became very confused. About 0830, the genoa halyard broke and the genoa fell onto the deck and into the sea. I quickly put the engine into neutral to avoid getting the prop tangled in any cables or lines that might be trailing into the water. Murray hurried out on the deck and hauled the sail in as fast as he could. But, some had made contact with the hull. Blue bottom paint smears all over the sail! But at least it was aboard. Murray secured it with lines to keep it in place while we continued.

There were two quite busy shipping lanes ( one west-bound, one east-bound ) and we had to stop to avoid one ship but otherwise the traffic outside of the lanes was minimal.

From twelve miles out, I made contact with the authorities at Marina Vita. The visibility was obscured by sometimes heavy downpours but, still, we spotted the lighthouse about 5 miles out. The water is very deep, right up to the coast so our depth sounder was just flashing it’s “deep” signs. And that continued right into the harbour where it finally registered 150 ft! Channel markers were shown on the chart but they were very difficult to spot until we were quite a ways past the lighthouse. The markers reflect the “red right returning” system so that the red buoys are to be kept to the right or starboard. The markers also have cardinal markings on top, which point the way to safe water. A small boat, driven by Alex, came out to guide us in to the marina and he indicated the spot to anchor and wait for the “medico” or doctor who determines of you are healthy enough to be allowed ashore.

Once the doctor’s interview was completed, Alec again guided us to the the marina and assisted our tie-up at the dock. There are mooring balls in front of the dock, a line is passed through a ring on the top and then you back to the dock and affix two stern lines. This system is common in the Med. Backing up is not easy for sailboats!!! But we managed to accomplish this with minimal screaming and damage to the hull. Actually, I am kidding – no damage, no screaming.

More to follow
Heather & Murray

Hello all in the great white north,

A few mornings ago, we made a radio call to a boat that had returned to Hog Cay from Cuba, desiring to get some information from him. Shortly thereafter, we received a radio call from a boat whose name we didn’t recognize. Switching to another channel, Murray said “this is Windswept IV, go ahead”. The call came back ” Is this the Rands?”. Murray looked at the microphone in surprise and answered in the affirmative. The response from the other vessel was ” this is Jeff Witzak. I believe you know my father.”

Before long, Jeff and Ava were sitting in our cockpit, along with their 8 month old son Keagan. Jeff works for the Canadian Coast Guard and, when Keagan was born, took parental leave. They used the time to travel to Florida, found and bought a 30 foot boat, did some repairs and started cruising the Keys. From Key West, they headed west to the Dry Tortugas and then on to Havana, Cuba. For the next six weeks, they traveled eastward along the north coast of Cuba ( that is against prevailing wind direction and the most difficult way to go ). In that 6 week period, they spent only $700, including entry fees, cruising permit, fuel, food and marina fees. Oh, also including rum!

Murray had worked with Jeff’s father, Stan, at Clark Equipment and we had visited back and forth when all of the children were young. But, not having seen Jeff in the last 30 years, we would never have recognized him. He says that us and our adventures are the reason they are out here cruising. Wow! That blew us away.

So, today Murray is taking Jeff to snorkel for conch while I go over the Exuma charts with Ava. And maybe get a chance to cuddle Keagan for a bit, to keep from missing my grandkids quite so much.

The beach parties continue, almost daily. The sky is clear blue and the air temps in the high 70’s. I must admit that I am not spending as much time in the water as I would like, due to the sharks in the neighbourhood. But we can dinghy to a beach and paddle around in the shallow water when it gets too hot.

A few boats in a nearby anchorage are holding the “Beach Junk Wars” tomorrow. With only scissors, a knife and saw from their boat, they must create a useful object using only beach debris. We may dinghy over to view the results of their days work.

The wind forecast seems to be favourable to cross to Puerto Vita, Cuba, near the middle of next week. We will keep you informed.

Until then, stay safe and healthy. Write when you have a moment in your busy lives.

Hugs
Heather & Murray

Hello everyone,

We moved down to Hog Cay on Feb 7th and joined a large fleet of cruising vessels. Shortly after our arrival, Kevin on Mirabelle announced that their dog, Danny, had gone missing on Raccoon Cay. They had tried to search the island for him but that is difficult to do and the dog was deaf. After 48 hours, he asked for volunteers to help with the search. Murray and Doug, from High Stepper, went by dingy while many others sailed back around Margaret Shoal to anchor at Raccoon. The searchers, about 25 volunteers, spread out and crawled on the goat trails through the bush. It was hot and exhausting work in terrible conditions. Some tracks made by the dog were found but, otherwise, they had no success. Murray and Doug returned, scratched and sore from the ordeal. Kevin and Becky have placed water and dog food out but the food is not touched, except by the land crabs. After two weeks, they have finally given up and headed back towards Long Island or Exuma. During the search, a cruiser was injured as she fell onto her face on the razor rock. She was unconscious for about 30 minutes after which her husband helped her back to the beach. With two ER doctors and an orthopedic surgeon as part of the search party, she received excellent care and had 5 or 6 stitches in her face, along the laugh line. Her eye and jaw turned black and blue and she was very sore for most of a week.

The “Captain C” mail boat arrived early one morning and we delivered our empty propane tank to the ship, for re-fill in Nassau. They only charge $10 for this service, whereas in Staniel Cay it costs us $22 for a re-fill! Later, we took the dingys into town for fresh vegetables and a chance to have lunch at Silver Tail Lodge. Here at Hog Cay, there seems to always some event happening ashore. Either cocktails, a bonfire/singsong, beach walks on the many trails, garbage burning or bocce ball ( they built a court! ). Or we have drinks with another boat, either their cockpit or ours. It has been very hard on my snack supplies and the cupboard is almost empty already, before the end of February.

Miss Maxine had been hard at work, organizing her Valentine’s Day party at Hog Cay for this year. She had gotten permission to close the school so that all of the children ( 11 in total ) could attend. She cooked two turkeys, ham, huge containers of peas and rice, curried mutton, macaroni and cheese and potato salad. The cruisers brought salads and desserts to add to the groaning tables. For the first time, there was donated beer and soft drinks and these disappeared very quickly. The wind howled out in the anchorage but the beach seemed a sheltered spot and quite warm in the sun. Several awnings were strung in the trees to create some shade. A large number of the local folk came out from Duncan Town to join in on the festivities. One of the cruisers collapsed on the beach but, with the local nurse there and a doctor on a cruising boat, he received super care and was a case of dehydration. They did take him in to the clinic to monitor the situation but returned him just at sundown, as the party was breaking up. For the party, even more cruising boats showed up making a total of 36 vessels anchored here.

Luckily the weather has co-operated and no clocking fronts have occurred. The wind goes south or south-east and then backs up to the north or north-east and blows like stink. The wind generator flies around and we make power. In fact, for the last four days, the wind gen has run the boat and filled our water tanks.

Yesterday, I made biscuits for breakfast, baked bread and then made a dozen English muffins afterwards. Today, we invited friends over for Rand Mcmuffins with back bacon, cheese and a poached egg on homemade English muffins. Yummm! Tonight there is another party on shore, a cookout where we supply the meat we wish to grill and a side dish to share. The social swirl is un-believable.

High Stepper will head on north soon while we start to watch for a window to head further south. Next Exit has agreed to join us on the Cuban adventure and that time is drawing near. Somehow I must add to the larder as we cannot expect to find supplies in Cuba or rather, do not know what supplies we might find in Cuba. Tomorrow we will try to get to town for fresh vegetables, if the wind doesn’t blow too strong.

That is life aboard, sun, wind and blue skies with barefoot parties on sand beaches. Sounds idyllic, doesn’t it?

Hugs to all up north and we will see you soon – less than two months now!

Murray and Heather

Hello everyone,

I write this from the Jumento Cays and, as everyone who cruises them knows, the anchorages tend to be rolly. The boat bounces front to back, which is fine , but when it starts the sideways roll and everything clacks and clatters, no one gets much sleep. But, I am a way ahead of myself here.

With a cold front expected, we led Messenger through the narrow gap between Fowl Cay and Big Major Spot, around the sandbar and into OZ. This time we managed to lead them, without taking them aground! Everyone got their anchors secure before the strong winds expected or, rather, forecast. The high winds didn’t materialize so it was time to visit Staniel Cay. To go into the the village for supplies, we loaded the two kids in our dinghy while Scott and Lisa followed in theirs. I am not sure how they will manage once their older son, Reg, joins them in early Feb, as their dinghy is too small already for four. Especially if there is any wind or waves. After an extensive re-stocking, we bid them adieu and headed to Black Point to do laundry. It must have been the hottest day in a week! The sweat poured off of me but our clothes were finally clean. Now, once the weather was right, we were set to head down to the Jumento Cays. In the late afternoon, we sailed around the point into Little Bay and dropped anchor. Friends had caught a yellow fin tuna and invited us to share. Another great evening followed.

During the night, the wind backed to the northwest and the roll and bounce started. Most of the day found us just staying quietly on a settee reading, as moving around was tricky. By 3 pm, Murray was getting antsy and suggested that we brave the winds and waves and head into The Sandcastle to say goodbye to Doug and Jean. When we arrived, Jean was in a baking frenzy and I helped her finish her English Muffins while she made hamburger buns and hot dog rolls. They kindly invited us to stay for dinner and called Peg and Frank from O’Brien’s Landing to join us. A lovely time was had by all and Jean sent us off into the night with a bag of greens from her garden.

Early the next morning, Jan 29th, we headed towards the Jumentos, anchoring at Coakley the first night and then on to Buenavista Cay. As Murray was tidying up lines etc, shortly after we dropped the hook, he heard a gunshot. It came from a fishing vessel nearby, Lady Marie. He called to apologize for scaring us but he had just caught and shot a 8 foot blacktip shark. In the morning, he invited us over and gave us some lobster and conch and a dozen eggs to welcome us back. George is quite a character and very friendly to cruisers. Along with his son, Ivanhoe, and another crew member, he spends several weeks at a time fishing this area. The cleaning of the fish and conch attracts sharks, so we won’t do much diving until we are away from him. To thank them for the gifts, I made a batch of banana-chocolate chip muffins which Murray delivered while they were still warm. Luckily I made a double batch, so Mur wasn’t too deprived.

High Stepper sailed into the anchorage the next day, having been in George Town, then Long Island and then Water Cay. It was a great reunion and you would think that it had been months instead of weeks. Together we sailed down to Doublebreasted Cay so that we could be there for Klaus’s ( on Lucky Touch ) birthday. He was 72 this year and doing very well after his hip replacement in Oct/Nov. That night, our boats rolled and rolled again and we tossed from side to side in our berth, trying to get some sleep. Shortly after sunrise, we hauled anchor and moved on, to Racoon Cay, further north but with better protection from the east and southeast wind and wave action.

Yesterday, the four of us ( Doug and Connie, Murray and I ) went on a hike ashore. And what a hike it was! Up and down hills, skirting large holes in the rocks, across a salt pond ( dry mostly ), through scrub trees, past huge cactus and finally we arrived at the opposite shore. The ocean side. But there was no beach, just a steep, rocky cove with some debris tossed onto the razor rocks. Murray managed to find a few sea beans amongst the trash to add to his collection.

Today is bread making for me while Murray is off, catching fish for the larder. The generator and watermaker are humming away, adding to the stores of water and power. Soon we will move just a little to protect us from another rolly night, expected when the wind shifts again. Later in the week, we will sail down to Hog Cay for closer access to the village of Duncan Town and Miss Maxine’s grocery store.

But the sun has shone and the days have been very warm, with us jumping in to cool off frequently. How can we really complain? Life is MOSTLY good!

But we miss you all and think of you often. Write when you have time.

Hugs,
Heather & Murray

Hello everyone,

It has been almost three weeks since my last report and we have been hiding here and there from the high winds. But, finally it did get warm enough to go into the water and we have snorkeled several times in the last two weeks. In fact, it got sooo hot one day, that we were jumping in, just to cool off. There have been rain storms and rainbows, thunder ( but no lightning, thank goodness ) and the rest of the winter madness.

Along with the crews from High Stepper, Blue Jacket, Next Exit and Its About Time, we joined along with the folks from O’Brien’s Landing and the Sandcastle for a huge spaghetti dinner at the castle. It was a great time with everyone contributing to the potluck. From there, some of the vessels went south to the Jumentos while we did laundry and then hid from another cold front.

High Stepper was experiencing trouble with their outboard motor and finally decided to go to George Town, Great Exuma to buy a new one. We sailed on down to Black Point and met Next Exit anchored near the castle again. Time for another get together, this time at O’Brien’s Landing, on their deck which overlooks the bay. All of the crews of the vessels at anchor came in and another great time was had by all. The next few days were going to be very windy so we planned some shore excursions with beach walks high on the list for the next morning. After a tour of the progress that Peg and Frank O’Brien have made with their home, Jean invited all to the Sandcastle in the afternoon for a tour there and for me to demonstrate how to make flour tortillas. All in all, a wonderful way to spend a windy day.

The next few days blew even harder and some of the vessels used the north wind to travel further south. We headed to the village of Black Point and Ida’s laundry facility ” Rockside Laundry”. It is the cleanest coin laundry that I have ever seen and Ida is a dear. Once all was fresh smelling, we stopped for a Kalik ( Bahamian beer ) and free internet at one of the restaurants. A chance to check the bank balance and pay a bill or two, yeah!

Murray had been asked to install a new transmission for Becky and Kevin on Mirabelle, who were anchored in Pipe Creek. They had been there since late November, awaiting the arrival of this transmission and unable to move. The word was passed down that the part was close by, so off to Pipe Creek we sailed and anchored by “The Mice”. The transmission was successfully installed but cold fronts were expected, so it was time for us to stay put and enjoy new snorkel spots. My underwater camera has been just great and I will post some photos on the website when we next have access to wifi.

Messenger, Scott and Lisa from Port Dover, caught up to us while we waited in Pipe Creek. You might remember that Messenger is the boat that Murray and I worked on this summer to get them ready for a one year cruise. Right now they have two children aboard, Aiden, 14, and Elizabeth , 11. Their oldest son, Reg, 16, will join them in George Town in February. In Pipe Creek we lead them on a couple of shore adventures, the first in the shallow water, finding sand dollars. Yesterday we headed for a beach walk, but got more than bargained for when crossing a sand flat that became a mud bog quickly due to recent rains. Your foot would sink ankle deep into this sticky, stinky muck and then, you tried to pull it out and take another step. And lose your shoe. Yuck! It was awful but the beach walk was interesting. And then we had to head back and cross the bog again. Each person carried a rock or palm fronds to try to create a more solid surface to step onto. It did help and crossing was slightly easier this time.

Today, we sailed on south slightly, back to Big Major Spot. Two more fronts are expected this week and we will need to take shelter once more. When they clear out, we hope to re-stock with fresh produce from the grocery here, do laundry and check the internet once again in Black Point and then head to the Jumentos for about a month. High Stepper will meet us there.

Our long range plans still include a visit to Cuba sometime in March. But, cruisers’ plans are all written in sand at the low tide level.

Hugs to all,
Heather & Murray

Luckily, this year we arrived in Staniel Cay in time for all of the New Years festivities.

After checking out the new restaurant/beach bar for lunch, we dropped into Isles General and bought the last bunch of bananas and a couple of green peppers. An auction was held at Staniel Cay Yacht Club along with free rum punch, beer and snacks provided by the “C Class” Racing Committee.

The auction was a fund-raiser for the Cruising Regatta and we try to support this event by donating objects or purchasing interesting things. The organizers of the Mixed Doubles ( the mixed refers to Bahamians and tourists as crew ) Racing for the next day announced that all who signed up to crew would be accommodated aboard one of the vessels in the three race series. This year, the races would be aboard two Class A vessels, Tida Wave and Lady Muriel. The Class A Bahamian racing sloop is 30 feet long with a 65 foot mast and 35 foot boom approximately. They use 6000 pounds of lead ingots for ballast and two or three”pries”( that is a long board or pry that is slid from side to side as necessary ) loaded with crew to limit the heel angle. Just before sunset, we dinghied back to our boats at anchor by Big Major Spot.

The races were scheduled to start at 10 am on the 31st but, in true Bahamian fashion, they actually started at noon!! Murray was selected to ride on Tida Wave in the second race, so we packed some sandwiches and headed off to town again. Once I dropped Murray at the yacht club, Connie ( from High Stepper ) and I took our dinghy out onto the race course to get some photos of the action. Doug was aboard Lady Muriel and the outhaul on their boom broke just as they rounded the first mark. Tida Wave took full advantage of this to extend their lead and handily won the second race. Lady Muriel fought hard during the third race but it ended up being a 3 to 0 series, with Murray being on the winning crew. The awards ceremony took place at the Yacht Club, with some jackets being given to the “tourist” crew members. But, as they didn’t have enough for all, it was decided by lottery and Murray didn’t win one. Oh well, orange isn’t his colour anyhow.

That evening was the Cruising Regatta Skippers Cocktail Party and we made our way over to Happy People’s bar to attend and to sign up for the race. For $30, Murray got a tee shirt, a ticket to the barbeque and race entry. For another $15, I had a barbeque ticket as well. The cocktail party wasn’t up to the level of previous years as the food ran out quickly and the rum punch was so-so. The committee was very much missing the organizational skills of Joan Mann, who was off the island due to health issues. Once more, we aimed the dinghy towards Big Major Spot in the gathering dusk.

We have been told that there was a super fireworks display at midnight. But Murray and I woke with the noise only enough to say ” Happy New Year” and go right back to sleep once again.

The dawn broke with all the wind expected. It was blowing 20 to 25 knots. This was not C & C weather but we decided to race anyway. Only 8 or 9 vessels signed up due to the predicted heavy winds. Luckily we had lots of crew: Jerry from Blue Jacket; Don from Next Exit; David and Bob from SaYes. With a triple reefed main, we headed out onto the race course for the scheduled 10 am start. High Stepper was forced to retire, before the start, due to a ripped mainsail. One of the boats, a brand new 85 foot custom Ted Hood design, Sea Hawk complained that the mark was in water too shallow for them to reach. When the course was modified and all racers were in place, the start flag was given. Windswept IV was second over the line and making good time downwind with the spinnaker pole holding the jib in place. By the first mark, Different Drummer, a Bristol 477, had passed us along with Sea Hawk. Tida Wave was out with a crew of locals and called for buoy room at the mark. By the next mark we had edged them out but were forced to duck their stern in order to tack onto the course back towards the committee boat. Once we crossed the start line again for the second circuit, Tida Wave had fallen quite a ways back and only an aero-rigged catamaran, Felix the Cat, was near us. By the finish, Different Drummer was first, Sea Hawk second and us in third place. Sea Hawk was plowing the bottom during most of the last leg, which slowed them down quite a lot.

As the barbeque wasn’t scheduled to start until 5:30, we opted to take W4 over to town and towed several dinghies for other cruisers who wished to attend the event but didn’t want to come back in the dark. After speeches, trophy presentations and straw gift bags containing goodies for the participants, the meal was served. Peas and rice, chicken or pork, along with coleslaw and macaroni and cheese – typical Bahamian fare and delicious. By now, it was pitch black and we made our way cautiously back to the mother ship. Using spotlights, computer charting and Murray’s good sight, we piloted back to Big Major Spot safely, anchored again and sent all of the dinghies off to their respective boats.

After a day off to recover from all the partying, we sailed down to Little Bay south of Black Point on Monday. Plans were made for a spaghetti dinner at The Sandcastle, with friends from shore and aboard 5 other boats. The Sandcastle is a real castle, with four towers with turrets rising three stories, powered by a wind generator and many solar panels. Doug & Jean Spencer make the cruisers very welcome in their home and often have dinners or cocktail parties. Frank and Peg O’Brien ” O’Brien’s Landing” have a house on a nearby beach and also often host cocktail parties on their deck and it was wonderful to see them again as well. Everyone brought something to contribute to the dinner and it was a feast with hot snacks beforehand, a wonderful spaghetti followed by two different desserts. Murray was in heaven with the rare option of desserts.

Today he has gone back to the castle to work with Doug to build a motor hoist for our outboard. Between the two of them, I expect it will be a successful and useful item. It will allow Murray to lower or raise the outboard from the railing to the dinghy all alone. Later we hope to take a beach walk and then move over to town, to do laundry tomorrow. Another cold front ( the first since Christmas Day ) is expected Thursday, so we will need to move into a place with westerly protection later tomorrow. But, Black Point not only has laundry, they also have free internet and I will be able to send this report winging on its way.

Continue to respond to the winlink address. I will just use this e-mail when I need to publish photos etc on the website and, if you check the site later, there should be some new pictures for you to enjoy.

Hugs to all and write when you have a moment.
Heather & Murray

Hello All

During the night Christmas Day, the winds began to howl. And the howling continued through the next two days with the wind clocked at a maximum of 40 knots during gusts. The wind generator kept the batteries fully charged but the winds were cool. It was time once again for long pants and sweaters.

There was wireless available and we purchased a three day package from one provider. The service was strong enough to take my money but seldom strong enough for us to connect! What a pain that was.

On Monday, we braved the high winds and went ashore to collect e-mails and answer what we could. A little restaurant had free wifi available, with a purchase of some coffee or food. From there, we went to The Poop Deck, at Nassau Yacht Haven for lunch.

SaYes was on a dock at Nassau Harbour Club and together we made plans to depart in the morning.

On Tuesday, the winds finally died somewhat and we hauled anchor and sailed across the Yellow Banks towards the Exuma Cays. The wind was on our stern quarter and we flew across the miles, passing every boat ahead of us, and arriving near Norman’s Cay shortly after 1 pm. The decision was made to continue down the island chain, eventually dropping the hook at Hawksbill Cay, in the Exuma Land and Sea Park. We didn’t pick up one of their moorings but they do provide them at many of the cays in the park.

The depths coming into the anchorage were slightly less than shown on the chart and during the evening, we started to kiss the bottom. Thunk, thunk. That sound is never a good one and especially after dark. With shallows surrounding us, we opted to stay where we were rather than blunder about in the dark. My alarm rings at 0615 each morning for the weather net and, while I recorded the information, Murray hauled the anchor just as the dawn broke over the low cay. At that point we had about mid tide and he saw about 6 inches below the keel at the shallowest. He re-anchored and then we made preparations for the real departure.

Shortly after lunch, we dropped anchor near Staniel Cay, in Big Major Spot. Friends, Doug and Connie on High Stepper and Gordon and Lori on Mystic, came over right away to welcome us to the neighbourhood.

We plan to stay here through the New Years celebrations and maybe take part in the Staniel Cay Cruisers Regatta. After that, we have no plans other than to enjoy these islands and the people who live on them.

May the New Year find you and yours with good health and much happiness.

Hugs
Heather & Murray